Barolo and Burgundy done dead serious
West Chelsea · New York · American
Reviewed April 8, 2026
Wingman Metrics
The wine list at Crane Club lands like a quiet flex — 400-plus selections in a moody West Chelsea dining room that clearly takes itself seriously. The Piedmont and Burgundy sections alone could keep you occupied for an entire dinner. This is not a list assembled by committee or a beverage director phoning it in.
The spine of this list is Italian and French, and both are built with real conviction. Piedmont is the headliner: Giacomo Conterno, Bartolo Mascarello, and Bruno Giacosa represent Barolo at its most traditional and uncompromising, while Gaja and Bruno Rocca anchor a Barbaresco section that doesn't skip legs. Burgundy runs just as deep, with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Leroy, and Rousseau doing exactly what you'd expect them to do on a list that earned a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence in its first year of eligibility. There's even a Barolo Chinato section for digestifs, which tells you everything about how seriously the team thinks about the full arc of a wine-driven dinner.
Twenty to thirty-five pours by the glass is a generous program for a room this calibrated, and the $15–$30 range reflects genuine quality rather than filler. We'd expect the Nebbiolo-based Langhe selections to do heavy lifting here — approachable entry points into the same regional DNA that defines the bottle list. Rotation frequency isn't confirmed, but a staff this deep in sommeliers suggests the glass program isn't just set and forgotten.
Langhe Nebbiolo — $15-$20
As a by-the-glass pour, a well-chosen Langhe Nebbiolo gives you the Barolo experience — same grape, same terroir philosophy — without the sticker shock of the prestige bottles. It's the smartest drink in the room if you're watching your tab.
Barolo Chinato
Most tables walk past the digestif section entirely. Barolo Chinato is a bittersweet, fortified, aromatized wine made from Nebbiolo — it's the kind of thing serious Italian wine lovers seek out and most American diners have never encountered. Order it after dinner and thank us later.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
It's on the list, it's the real thing, and the markup on DRC in a New York fine-dining room will make your eyes water. Unless someone else is paying, there are extraordinary bottles here at a fraction of the price that will make you just as happy.
Bartolo Mascarello Barolo + Wood-fired meat
Mascarello's traditionally made Barolo — firm tannins, tar, roses, the whole classic package — finds its foil in the char and fat of a wood-fired preparation. The smoke softens the wine's edges and the wine cuts right through the richness. This is the pairing that justifies the whole evening.
🔥 The Bottom Line
Crane Club is a serious wine destination wearing a stylish restaurant's clothes — the Piedmont and Burgundy depth alone earns its Rager badge. Prices climb fast once you go deep, but the staff and the list give you every tool to spend wisely.
Midtown West · New York · Russian-American
The Russian Tea Room treats wine as an afterthought dressed up in Champagne flutes — five famous labels at punishing prices with no range, no by-the-glass program, and no apparent curiosity about wine beyond what looks impressive on a table. Go for the spectacle, order the caviar, but don't come here expecting a wine list.
Grocery Store
Gouge
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
David Burke Tavern's list is a Chardonnay lover's comfort zone with a solid sparkling section propping up the top — but the narrow focus and steep pricing mean you're paying for familiarity, not discovery. Send a friend here if they want California whites and a glass of Champagne; send them somewhere else if they want to explore.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
Corima's wine list is proof that ten well-chosen bottles beat a hundred thoughtless ones every time. If you care about what's in your glass, this place is worth your attention.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
West Village · New York · American
Cecchi's is first and foremost a bar, but the wine list is more serious than the neon and noise suggest. Steep markups are the main ding — but if you know what to order, there's real pleasure here.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Acceptable
SoHo · New York · Steak House, Small Plates
The Corner Store is a reliable, well-credentialed wine list doing exactly what a good SoHo steakhouse should — France and California, done with intention, in a room that makes you want to order another bottle. Just watch the markup on the big Bordeaux names and let the Rhône or Burgundy side show you a better time.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Proper
Tribeca · New York · American
Farra is punching above its weight class for a neighborhood wine bar, and the Wine Spectator nod is earned — just know that the serious bottles come with serious prices, and the no-sommelier setup means you're doing some of the navigating yourself. Worth it for anyone who knows what they want; potentially overwhelming for those who don't.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Varietal Specific
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Proper
Southwest / Time Corners · Fort Wayne · American
Catablu is exactly what it needs to be for its neighborhood — a reliable, thoughtfully maintained list that won't embarrass you on a date night or bore you entirely. It's not a destination wine list, but it's a solid supporting act for a kitchen that clearly takes food seriously.
Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Otay Ranch Town Center · Chula Vista · American
BJ's is a fine place to drink a craft beer and eat a Pizookie. It is not a place to drink wine. Order a Brewhouse Blonde, skip the wine list entirely, and save your wine night for somewhere that cares.
Grocery Store
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
SanTan Village · Gilbert · American
The Cheesecake Factory is a perfectly fine place to eat — the wine list just isn't a reason to go. Order a cocktail, split a bottle of Santa Margherita if you must, and save your wine curiosity for somewhere that earned it.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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