Oakland's Quiet Giant Has the Cellar to Prove It
Piedmont Avenue · Oakland · Asian, French
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 7, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Commis’s wine list and gave it The Rager — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
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The wine list at Commis arrives like a quiet flex — no flashy cover, no gimmicks, just 300-plus selections that tell you immediately this kitchen takes its wine as seriously as its dashi. Glowing pendants, bare walnut tables, candlelight: the room is built for a slow, deliberate dinner, and the list matches that energy perfectly.
This is a Burgundy-first list with a genuine obsession — Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Henri Jayer, Leroy, Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet, and Coche-Dury Meursault all appear, which puts Commis in rarefied company for a 40-seat room in Oakland. Germany gets serious shelf space too, with Egon Müller Scharzhofberger and Keller Riesling representing the kind of producers most California restaurants don't bother sourcing. California isn't an afterthought — Ridge Monte Bello and Aubert Chardonnay anchor the domestic side with real credibility. If you're hunting outside France and Germany, the list gets thinner, but the depth where it matters is genuinely impressive.
Eight to twelve pours by the glass, running $15–$25, which is reasonable for the tier of restaurant this is. We'd expect the glass program to rotate with the tasting menu, tracking seasonal shifts in the kitchen, but don't come here banking on an adventurous glass list — the real action is in the bottle selections. Bring a friend and split a bottle; that's clearly the intent.
Keller Riesling — $60-range (bottle)
In a list stacked with four-figure Burgundy, a Keller Riesling is the smart play — world-class producer, laser-precise acidity that cuts right through Commis's richer courses, and priced at a fraction of what the Burgundy names command. It's the bottle a seasoned drinker orders while everyone else reaches for Coche-Dury.
Egon Müller Scharzhofberger
Most diners at a tasting menu restaurant see 'German Riesling' and assume it's a supporting character. Egon Müller is one of the most legendary producers on earth, and his Scharzhofberger has a complexity and longevity that rivals anything on this list. If it's available and within reach, don't let it sit there.
Aubert Chardonnay
Aubert is a fine producer, but at Commis's markups on a bottle that's already expensive at retail, you're paying a premium for a California Chardonnay when the French whites on this list — Leflaive, Coche-Dury — are clearly where the kitchen's sourcing instincts align. Spend those dollars in Burgundy.
Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet + Dungeness crab with seasonal accompaniments
Leflaive's Puligny has that mineral tension and restrained richness that lifts sweet Dungeness crab without overwhelming it — the wine's texture matches the dish's delicacy, and the saline edge in both pulls the whole thing into focus.
The Bottom Line
Commis has no business being this good at wine for a neighborhood restaurant in Oakland, and that's exactly the point — it's earned a Best of Award of Excellence since 2019 and the list backs it up with names most sommeliers can only dream about stocking. If you're serious about what's in your glass, book a table and bring a budget.
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Small but Thoughtful
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Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Deep & Eclectic
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Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
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Small but Thoughtful
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Acceptable
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Small but Thoughtful
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Small but Thoughtful
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Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
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Deep & Eclectic
Steep
Varietal Specific
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Proper
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Deep & Eclectic
Steep
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