Burgundy royalty above Grand Central
Midtown · New York · French
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 8, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Centurion’s wine list and gave it The Rager — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
Wingman Metrics
The wine list at Centurion arrives like a statement — thick, deliberate, and anchored by names that belong in a private cellar, not a restaurant tucked above a train station. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Château Pétrus, Domaine Leroy — this is not a list assembled casually. Wine Spectator handed them a Best of Award of Excellence in 2025 and the program earns it on sight.
The 400–600 bottle list leans hard into France — Burgundy and Bordeaux are the twin pillars, with depth that goes well beyond the obvious appellations. Champagne holds its own with Krug Grande Cuvée and Bollinger anchoring a serious category, while Italy shows up credibly with Sassicaia and Tignanello for those who want to stray from the Loire. California makes a respectable appearance via Kistler Vineyards and Opus One, though this is clearly not the list's spiritual home. What's notable is the curatorial intent: every region here feels deliberate, not padding.
Twenty to thirty-five options by the glass is a generous pour program for a room operating at this level, with prices running $18–$45. At the top end you're getting access to producers — like Domaine Faiveley and Bollinger — that most restaurants would never risk opening by the glass. Rotation cadence is unclear, but with sommeliers Robert Longo and Ralph Dorcin running the floor, expect the glass list to get some actual attention.
Domaine Faiveley Burgundy — $18–$45 by the glass
Faiveley is a serious Burgundy house that often gets overshadowed by the DRC conversation — but their wines consistently punch above their price point. By-the-glass access to Faiveley at this price range is one of the smarter moves on this list.
Tignanello
Most tables here are laser-focused on Burgundy and Bordeaux, which means the Italian section gets slept on. Tignanello — the Tuscan blend that helped define Super Tuscans — is exactly the kind of wine that deserves attention on a French-forward list, and the crowd ignoring it means you might actually get a conversation going with the sommelier about it.
Opus One
Opus One is a reliable crowd-pleaser with name recognition that restaurants love to mark up accordingly. At a room operating at this price tier, you're almost certainly paying a significant premium for the label. The Bordeaux section on this same list offers more interesting drinking for the money — go there instead.
Château Margaux + Rack of lamb
Château Margaux's elegance and dark fruit structure is the textbook match for a properly prepared rack of lamb — enough weight to stand up to the meat, enough finesse not to bulldoze it. At Centurion, with French technique in the kitchen, this pairing is about as dialed in as it gets.
The Bottom Line
Centurion is the kind of wine program that justifies the Midtown price tag if you come in with clear eyes about what you're paying for. If you're serious about Burgundy or Bordeaux and want a room that can actually talk to you about the list, this is the play.
NoHo · New York · Italian
Il Buco has one of the most compelling Italian wine lists in New York City — deep, principled, and staffed by people who actually care. The markup is real, so budget accordingly, but this is a room worth splurging in.
Deep & Eclectic
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Downtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Downtown is a place where people order Champagne to celebrate, not to drink — and the wine program is built accordingly. If you're here for the vibe and someone else is paying, pop the Dom and enjoy it; if you actually care about what's in your glass, you're in the wrong room.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Upscale Seafood & Steakhouse
Three happy hour wines do not a wine program make. Ocean Prime is a place you eat well and drink safely — but if wine is a priority, this list will let you down before the bread basket arrives.
Grocery Store
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Occasional
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Midtown is a great place to see and be seen, but the wine list is there to pad the check, not to excite you. If you're here for the experience, lean on the cocktails or grab a glass of Bonanza at the bar — don't expect the bottle list to reward any real curiosity.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown West · New York · Russian-American
The Russian Tea Room treats wine as an afterthought dressed up in Champagne flutes — five famous labels at punishing prices with no range, no by-the-glass program, and no apparent curiosity about wine beyond what looks impressive on a table. Go for the spectacle, order the caviar, but don't come here expecting a wine list.
Grocery Store
Gouge
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
David Burke Tavern's list is a Chardonnay lover's comfort zone with a solid sparkling section propping up the top — but the narrow focus and steep pricing mean you're paying for familiarity, not discovery. Send a friend here if they want California whites and a glass of Champagne; send them somewhere else if they want to explore.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Georgetown · Washington · French
Lutèce is a strong place to explore French wine with a firm budget in mind. The posted list runs from a $64 Southern Rhône red to $600 Champagne, so tell Chris Ray what you want to spend and let that guide the conversation. Confirm prices and availability when you book or arrive.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
· Paso Robles · French
Cépage is a destination restaurant in a destination wine region — the kind of place you plan a Saturday around, not somewhere you stumble into. The wine program appears honest to its terroir and purpose, though pricing at this caliber of operation rarely favors the guest. If you're already out on Highway 46 with a reservation in hand, you're likely going to have a very good time; just don't arrive expecting a sprawling global list or a killer value-hunting opportunity.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Proper
Weston · Weston · French
The Left Bank is the rare small-town wine program that genuinely surprises you — not by accident, but because someone with real taste built it. If you're driving through Vermont and need a reason to stop in Weston, this list is it.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
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