O' by Claude Le Tohic

The wine list at O' lands like a quiet flex — no flashy cover, just 400-plus selections that tell you immediately this kitchen takes its bottles as seriously as its plates. The focus on Champagne, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Rhône reads like a love letter to French classicism, and the California section earns its seat at the table. This is a list curated by people who actually drink this stuff.

The French pillars are genuine: Krug Grande Cuvée and Salon Blanc de Blancs anchor the Champagne section, while Burgundy goes deep enough to include Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Leroy Chambolle-Musigny alongside Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin — that's not a checklist, that's a commitment. Bordeaux delivers the expected heavyweights in Château Pétrus and Château Mouton Rothschild, but the Rhône section is where things get interesting: Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape and E. Guigal La Landonne Côte-Rôtie show someone here has genuine opinions. California holds its own with Kistler Chardonnay, Marcassin Pinot Noir, and Opus One — not just trophies, but wines that make sense alongside Claude Le Tohic's food. The one gap: if you're hunting for natural wine or anything outside the classic playbook, you're at the wrong restaurant.

Twelve to twenty pours keeps the glass program from being a token gesture — there's real range here, and at $18 to $45 a glass, you're paying for quality but not getting gouged relative to what's in the bottle. Matthieu Charton and Alex Hawes know the list well enough to steer you toward the right glass for what you're eating, which matters more than the count. The program skews classic French, so don't expect anything left-field.