Sugo

Twenty-one wines, all by the glass — that's the whole card, and honestly, it's a bold move. No bottle list to hide behind, no cellar flex, just a tightly curated lineup where every pour is available by the stem. The range runs from a non-alcoholic Oddbird Blanc de Blancs to a serious Aglianico, which tells you this isn't a lazy list slapped together by a distributor rep.

For a 21-label list, there's real geographic ambition here. Italy anchors everything — Verdicchio from Marche, Fiano from Puglia, Nero d'Avola from Sicily, Chianti from Tuscany, Aglianico from Basilicata — with enough regional variety to make an Italian wine nerd genuinely happy. The non-Italian picks are modest but smart: a Más Así Alvarinho (Portugal), a Bex Riesling (Germany), and a Spanish Tempranillo rosado fill in the white spaces without feeling random. The Brancatelli Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc blend is the one wildcard that doesn't quite fit the theme, but it's a forgivable outlier. Gaps exist — no Barolo, no Brunello, no serious Sangiovese — but for a casual Italian spot, the depth-to-size ratio punches above its weight.

Everything is by the glass, ranging from $11 to $18, which is genuinely refreshing and keeps the table flexible. That ceiling of $18 means you're not getting highway-robbed to try the Andrea Felici Verdicchio or the Felsina Chianti. The rotation appears static rather than seasonal, which is the one thing holding this program back from being truly exciting.