Georgetown's Sparkling Obsession Nobody Saw Coming
· Georgetown · European-style steakhouse · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · September 6, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Sovian Restaurant & Cocktail Lounge’s wine list and gave it The Wild Card — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
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Wingman Metrics
You're in Georgetown, Texas — a suburb more associated with big box retail than big bottle Champagne — and somehow this steakhouse drops a 95-label list anchored by serious grower-style producers and multiple Ferghettina Franciacorta expressions. It's disorienting in the best possible way. The sparkling section alone is more thoughtful than most dedicated wine bars in Austin.
The Champagne game here is legitimately impressive: Ayala, Billecart-Salmon, Pol Roger, and Lanson cover classic houses with range from entry-level to the Sir Winston Churchill 2015 at $500 — a trophy bottle that actually belongs on this list. The Franciacorta deep-cut is where Sovian earns real credibility, with three Ferghettina expressions including the Satèn 2020 and the 'Eronero' Brut Rosé, a category most Texas restaurants have never heard of. Sparkling rosés are treated with equal seriousness, from the Ultramarine 'Heintz Vineyard' Brut Rosé 2021 (a California cult pick) down to the entry-friendly Que Pop at $40. The still wine section appears to be present — we spot the Far Niente Chardonnay 2022 — but the list is clearly built around bubbles first, everything else second.
Glass pour options aren't published, which is either a gap in transparency or a sign that this place leans hard into bottle service. Given the steakhouse context and bottle-forward pricing structure, we suspect BTG is limited. If you're not ready to commit to a full bottle, ask your server specifically — or go splits on the Roederer Estate Brut at $68, which is priced right for sharing.
Roederer Estate Brut — $68
Anderson Valley Brut from one of California's best sparkling producers, and at $68 it's the most honest price on a list that otherwise trends steep. This is the move if you want something serious without committing triple digits.
Ferghettina Satèn 2020
Franciacorta Satèn is a blanc de blancs-style made exclusively from Chardonnay with lower pressure for a creamier texture — and almost nobody in Texas knows what it is. At $165, it's not cheap, but you're getting a wine that serious Italian sparkling collectors chase and your tablemates will definitely ask about.
Pol Roger Brut Réserve (375ml)
At $88 for a half bottle, you're paying more per ounce than the full 750ml at $160. The math doesn't work. Just split the full bottle and move on.
Billecart-Salmon 'Sous Bois' Brut + Steak (bone-in cuts or ribeye)
The 'Sous Bois' is an oak-aged Champagne with enough richness and brioche depth to actually stand up to red meat — a pairing move that sounds counterintuitive until you try it. At a steakhouse with Champagne as the centerpiece, this is the flex order.
The Bottom Line
Sovian is doing something genuinely unexpected for suburban Texas: building a serious sparkling wine program in a steakhouse format, with real producers and real depth. Markup keeps it from being a Rager, but the sheer specificity and ambition of the list earns it a Wild Card without hesitation.
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