A Riviera Brasserie With Serious Cellar Credentials
Upper West Side · New York · French · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 5, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Nice Matin’s wine list and gave it The Rager — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
Wingman Metrics
The wine list at Nice Matin lands on the table like a small novel — 1,200-plus bottles organized with the kind of intention that tells you someone here genuinely cares. For a neighborhood French brasserie on the Upper West Side, this is a legitimately world-class cellar, and the Grand Award plaques from Wine Spectator going back to 2014 are not just wall decoration. Walter Dunbar and Daniel Tang are the names behind the program, and it shows in every region covered.
Bordeaux and Burgundy anchor the list in the way you'd hope — Château Margaux, Château Pétrus, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, and Domaine Leroy all make appearances, which puts Nice Matin in a very short list of neighborhood restaurants on the planet. Rhône gets serious treatment too, with Château Rayas representing the appellation at its most cerebral. California isn't an afterthought: Kistler Vineyards and Ridge Monte Bello signal that the American section was built by someone who knows the difference between a trophy Napa Cab and an actual interesting bottle. Italy rounds it out with Giacomo Conterno Barolo and Sassicaia — no shortcuts, no filler.
With 20 to 30 pours available at any given time in the $14–$30 range, the by-the-glass program punches well above what you'd expect for a neighborhood spot. Champagne typically anchors the top end — Krug is on the bottle list and that spirit carries into the glass selections. The range is wide enough that you can drink well without committing to a full bottle, though once you open that list, restraint gets harder.
Kistler Vineyards Chardonnay — $80–$120
Kistler is genuinely hard to find at restaurants, and when a room has it, you drink it. Relative to what the kitchen is producing — bouillabaisse, moules marinières — this is the right move at a price that still feels grounded compared to the Burgundy deep cuts next to it.
Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Most tables at Nice Matin are drinking Bordeaux or Burgundy, which means the Rayas — one of the most singular wines in the Rhône — gets overlooked. Pure Grenache from old vines, almost Burgundian in its elegance, and exactly what you want with duck confit in a room that feels like the South of France.
Sassicaia
A legitimately great wine, but at NYC restaurant pricing it gets marked up into the stratosphere and you can find comparable Italian structure and complexity for significantly less on the same list. Save the Sassicaia budget for a bottle shop.
Giacomo Conterno Barolo + Duck Confit
Conterno Barolo is built for fat and depth — the acidity cuts through the richness of the confit while the tannin structure matches the weight of the dish without steamrolling it. Classic Old World logic, executed in a room that earns it.
The Bottom Line
Nice Matin is the rare neighborhood restaurant where the wine list is the main event, not an afterthought propping up the kitchen. If you're on the Upper West Side and you care about what's in your glass, this is the room.
NoHo · New York · Italian
Il Buco has one of the most compelling Italian wine lists in New York City — deep, principled, and staffed by people who actually care. The markup is real, so budget accordingly, but this is a room worth splurging in.
Deep & Eclectic
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Downtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Downtown is a place where people order Champagne to celebrate, not to drink — and the wine program is built accordingly. If you're here for the vibe and someone else is paying, pop the Dom and enjoy it; if you actually care about what's in your glass, you're in the wrong room.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Upscale Seafood & Steakhouse
Three happy hour wines do not a wine program make. Ocean Prime is a place you eat well and drink safely — but if wine is a priority, this list will let you down before the bread basket arrives.
Grocery Store
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Occasional
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Midtown is a great place to see and be seen, but the wine list is there to pad the check, not to excite you. If you're here for the experience, lean on the cocktails or grab a glass of Bonanza at the bar — don't expect the bottle list to reward any real curiosity.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown West · New York · Russian-American
The Russian Tea Room treats wine as an afterthought dressed up in Champagne flutes — five famous labels at punishing prices with no range, no by-the-glass program, and no apparent curiosity about wine beyond what looks impressive on a table. Go for the spectacle, order the caviar, but don't come here expecting a wine list.
Grocery Store
Gouge
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
David Burke Tavern's list is a Chardonnay lover's comfort zone with a solid sparkling section propping up the top — but the narrow focus and steep pricing mean you're paying for familiarity, not discovery. Send a friend here if they want California whites and a glass of Champagne; send them somewhere else if they want to explore.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Georgetown · Washington · French
Lutèce is a strong place to explore French wine with a firm budget in mind. The posted list runs from a $64 Southern Rhône red to $600 Champagne, so tell Chris Ray what you want to spend and let that guide the conversation. Confirm prices and availability when you book or arrive.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
· Paso Robles · French
Cépage is a destination restaurant in a destination wine region — the kind of place you plan a Saturday around, not somewhere you stumble into. The wine program appears honest to its terroir and purpose, though pricing at this caliber of operation rarely favors the guest. If you're already out on Highway 46 with a reservation in hand, you're likely going to have a very good time; just don't arrive expecting a sprawling global list or a killer value-hunting opportunity.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Proper
Weston · Weston · French
The Left Bank is the rare small-town wine program that genuinely surprises you — not by accident, but because someone with real taste built it. If you're driving through Vermont and need a reason to stop in Weston, this list is it.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
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