Burgundy Meets Uni in Hell's Kitchen
Hell's Kitchen · New York · Korean · Visit Website ↗
Updated June 2026
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 19, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Mari Korean Handroll’s wine list and gave it The Wild Card — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
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Wingman Metrics
You walk into a sleek Korean handroll bar on Ninth Avenue and the wine list hands you Domaine Leflaive. That's not what you expected, and that's exactly the point. This is a 100-bottle list with a real point of view, not a placeholder.
The list leans hard into Burgundy — white Burgundy especially — and it works because pristine seafood and mineral-driven Chardonnay is one of the oldest tricks in the book. Producers like Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin, Henri Boillot Meursault, and Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet anchor the whites, while Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin handles red duties for guests who insist on it. Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir gives a nod to the New World without abandoning the thread, and Domaine Weinbach Alsace Riesling is a smart inclusion — Riesling and raw fish is a no-brainer that too many wine lists ignore. The list won't satisfy someone chasing Barolo or Ribera del Duero, but if you're here for handrolls, you're here for what this list does.
Ten to sixteen pours by the glass, priced $12–$25, which for this caliber of producer in New York is not highway robbery. Expect white Burgundy to dominate the by-the-glass program, which is the right call given the menu. Suzana Sajjad runs the wine program and her influence shows — the glass pours feel intentional, not just leftovers from the bottle list.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin — $65
Saint-Aubin is Burgundy's open secret — same soils as Chassagne-Montrachet, fraction of the price. Colin-Morey is one of the best producers working with it. This bottle punches well above its tier on a list that could easily charge twice as much and get away with it.
Domaine Weinbach Alsace Riesling
Most people at a handroll bar are reaching for white Burgundy on autopilot. Skip the reflex. Weinbach's Riesling has the acidity and precision to cut through rich uni and fatty salmon in a way that Chardonnay, as good as it is, simply can't match.
Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin
Jadot makes perfectly competent Gevrey — but it's also on every wine list in America and marked up accordingly. Red Burgundy with handrolls is already a stretch, and there are better ways to spend your money on this particular list.
Henri Boillot Meursault + Uni handroll
Meursault's rich, buttery texture mirrors the oceanic creaminess of uni without drowning it, while the wine's underlying acidity keeps everything from going too heavy. Boillot's version has the precision to stay out of the way when the ingredient is this good.
The Bottom Line
A Korean handroll bar with a Wine Spectator Award and a Burgundy-forward list curated by someone who clearly thought about what goes in your glass alongside what goes in your hand — that's a Wild Card worth cashing in. Send your wine-curious friends here without hesitation.
Downtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Downtown is a place where people order Champagne to celebrate, not to drink — and the wine program is built accordingly. If you're here for the vibe and someone else is paying, pop the Dom and enjoy it; if you actually care about what's in your glass, you're in the wrong room.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Upscale Seafood & Steakhouse
Three happy hour wines do not a wine program make. Ocean Prime is a place you eat well and drink safely — but if wine is a priority, this list will let you down before the bread basket arrives.
Grocery Store
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Occasional
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Midtown is a great place to see and be seen, but the wine list is there to pad the check, not to excite you. If you're here for the experience, lean on the cocktails or grab a glass of Bonanza at the bar — don't expect the bottle list to reward any real curiosity.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown West · New York · Russian-American
The Russian Tea Room treats wine as an afterthought dressed up in Champagne flutes — five famous labels at punishing prices with no range, no by-the-glass program, and no apparent curiosity about wine beyond what looks impressive on a table. Go for the spectacle, order the caviar, but don't come here expecting a wine list.
Grocery Store
Gouge
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
David Burke Tavern's list is a Chardonnay lover's comfort zone with a solid sparkling section propping up the top — but the narrow focus and steep pricing mean you're paying for familiarity, not discovery. Send a friend here if they want California whites and a glass of Champagne; send them somewhere else if they want to explore.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
Corima's wine list is proof that ten well-chosen bottles beat a hundred thoughtless ones every time. If you care about what's in your glass, this place is worth your attention.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Downtown Fringe / North Wilson · Bozeman · Korean
Whistle Pig isn't a wine destination, but it's doing more than most Korean casual spots bother to do, and a few smart picks — especially the Occidental and the Riesling — make the list worth engaging with. Come for the bibimbap, order the wine, don't overthink it.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown West · New York · Korean
Kochi is the rare restaurant where the wine list feels like part of the concept, not an afterthought — French producers chosen to wrestle thoughtfully with Korean flavors, and a sommelier in Olive Ko who clearly believes in the pairing. Steep on price at the top end, but if you're eating the tasting menu anyway, lean into the Alsace and Loire pours and let the room do its thing.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Northeast Portland · Portland · Korean
Han Oak is the rarest kind of restaurant wine program: one where the list was built for the food, not the other way around. Send your friends here, but tell them to surrender to the format — it's worth it.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Seasonal Rotation
Acceptable
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.
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