Burgundy Meets Uni in Hell's Kitchen
Hell's Kitchen · New York · Korean · Visit Website ↗
Updated June 2026
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 19, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Mari Korean Handroll’s wine list and gave it The Wild Card — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
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Wingman Metrics
You walk into a sleek Korean handroll bar on Ninth Avenue and the wine list hands you Domaine Leflaive. That's not what you expected, and that's exactly the point. This is a 100-bottle list with a real point of view, not a placeholder.
The list leans hard into Burgundy — white Burgundy especially — and it works because pristine seafood and mineral-driven Chardonnay is one of the oldest tricks in the book. Producers like Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin, Henri Boillot Meursault, and Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet anchor the whites, while Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin handles red duties for guests who insist on it. Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir gives a nod to the New World without abandoning the thread, and Domaine Weinbach Alsace Riesling is a smart inclusion — Riesling and raw fish is a no-brainer that too many wine lists ignore. The list won't satisfy someone chasing Barolo or Ribera del Duero, but if you're here for handrolls, you're here for what this list does.
Ten to sixteen pours by the glass, priced $12–$25, which for this caliber of producer in New York is not highway robbery. Expect white Burgundy to dominate the by-the-glass program, which is the right call given the menu. Suzana Sajjad runs the wine program and her influence shows — the glass pours feel intentional, not just leftovers from the bottle list.
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin — $65
Saint-Aubin is Burgundy's open secret — same soils as Chassagne-Montrachet, fraction of the price. Colin-Morey is one of the best producers working with it. This bottle punches well above its tier on a list that could easily charge twice as much and get away with it.
Domaine Weinbach Alsace Riesling
Most people at a handroll bar are reaching for white Burgundy on autopilot. Skip the reflex. Weinbach's Riesling has the acidity and precision to cut through rich uni and fatty salmon in a way that Chardonnay, as good as it is, simply can't match.
Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin
Jadot makes perfectly competent Gevrey — but it's also on every wine list in America and marked up accordingly. Red Burgundy with handrolls is already a stretch, and there are better ways to spend your money on this particular list.
Henri Boillot Meursault + Uni handroll
Meursault's rich, buttery texture mirrors the oceanic creaminess of uni without drowning it, while the wine's underlying acidity keeps everything from going too heavy. Boillot's version has the precision to stay out of the way when the ingredient is this good.
🎲 The Bottom Line
A Korean handroll bar with a Wine Spectator Award and a Burgundy-forward list curated by someone who clearly thought about what goes in your glass alongside what goes in your hand — that's a Wild Card worth cashing in. Send your wine-curious friends here without hesitation.
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The Russian Tea Room treats wine as an afterthought dressed up in Champagne flutes — five famous labels at punishing prices with no range, no by-the-glass program, and no apparent curiosity about wine beyond what looks impressive on a table. Go for the spectacle, order the caviar, but don't come here expecting a wine list.
Grocery Store
Gouge
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
David Burke Tavern's list is a Chardonnay lover's comfort zone with a solid sparkling section propping up the top — but the narrow focus and steep pricing mean you're paying for familiarity, not discovery. Send a friend here if they want California whites and a glass of Champagne; send them somewhere else if they want to explore.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
Corima's wine list is proof that ten well-chosen bottles beat a hundred thoughtless ones every time. If you care about what's in your glass, this place is worth your attention.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
West Village · New York · American
Cecchi's is first and foremost a bar, but the wine list is more serious than the neon and noise suggest. Steep markups are the main ding — but if you know what to order, there's real pleasure here.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Acceptable
SoHo · New York · Steak House, Small Plates
The Corner Store is a reliable, well-credentialed wine list doing exactly what a good SoHo steakhouse should — France and California, done with intention, in a room that makes you want to order another bottle. Just watch the markup on the big Bordeaux names and let the Rhône or Burgundy side show you a better time.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Proper
Tribeca · New York · American
Farra is punching above its weight class for a neighborhood wine bar, and the Wine Spectator nod is earned — just know that the serious bottles come with serious prices, and the no-sommelier setup means you're doing some of the navigating yourself. Worth it for anyone who knows what they want; potentially overwhelming for those who don't.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Varietal Specific
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Proper
Midtown West · New York · Korean
Kochi is the rare restaurant where the wine list feels like part of the concept, not an afterthought — French producers chosen to wrestle thoughtfully with Korean flavors, and a sommelier in Olive Ko who clearly believes in the pairing. Steep on price at the top end, but if you're eating the tasting menu anyway, lean into the Alsace and Loire pours and let the room do its thing.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Northeast Portland · Portland · Korean
Han Oak is the rarest kind of restaurant wine program: one where the list was built for the food, not the other way around. Send your friends here, but tell them to surrender to the format — it's worth it.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Seasonal Rotation
Acceptable
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