Eau Claire

This is not a wine program — it's a liability hedge so they can say they serve wine. Come for the pizza, order the beer.

The Edge isn't going to win any awards for wine ambition, but it's honest, fairly priced, and perfectly calibrated for what it is — a classic supper club where the wine list supports the meal without getting in the way. Send a friend here for the prime rib, and tell them to order the Borgonero.

Johnny's Pizza Shop is a solid neighborhood pizza spot that treats wine as a beverage category, not a program. Come for the pizza, order a beer or a $10 glass of Mark West if you need wine, and save the serious bottle for the steakhouse next time.

Grizzly's wine list won't win any awards, but it's functional enough for a neighborhood grill where the real star is whatever's coming off the wood fire. Stick to the Trapiche or the Ruffino, take the $1 off at the bar during happy hour, and save your wine ambitions for somewhere else.

Johnny's is doing the most with a crowd-pleasing formula — 160 bottles, a Wine Spectator nod, and a list that won't offend anyone. Markups on the trophy bottles are hard to defend, but if you know where to look, there's a solid night of wine here for a reasonable bill.

Johnny's isn't trying to reinvent the wine list — it's trying to make sure you drink well with your steak, and it succeeds. Send a friend here if they want reliable California pours at fair prices without having to think too hard about it.