Spago Beverly Hills

The wine list at Spago lands like a thud — the good kind. At roughly 3,000 bottles, it's the kind of document that makes you set down your phone and actually pay attention. This isn't a vanity list padded with safe commercial labels; there are real decisions made here, with depth across Burgundy, California, Bordeaux, Champagne, Rhône, Italy, and Germany that most restaurants wouldn't attempt.

California Cabernet is the obvious hometown hero, with cult and library selections from Napa that read like a who's-who of the appellation — and they've done the work to source back-vintages, not just current releases. The Burgundy section is where this list really separates itself: aged red Burgundy verticals, grower-level selections, and bottles like the Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs from Comte Lafon in magnum signal a program that takes the region seriously. German Riesling gets meaningful shelf space — top Mosel and Rheingau producers show up — which is rare and appreciated in a room that could easily lean all-California. The Iberian Peninsula whites are a newer addition that feels genuinely curious rather than trend-chasing, with selections like the Albillo 'Yunquera' from Bodegas Valduero adding a layer of intrigue.

Twenty-two by-the-glass options is a real commitment for a restaurant at this level, and the range spans enough ground to satisfy someone who wants a smart pour without committing to a bottle. Prices run $14–$35 per glass, which is honest for Beverly Hills. We'd love to see a bit more rotation energy here — the program has the cellar depth to make the BTG list a genuinely exciting rotating showcase, and it's not quite doing that yet.