Sicily's volcanic soul hiding in SoHo
SoHo · New York · Italian · Visit Website ↗
Updated August 2026
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 8, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Piccola Cucina Estiatorio’s wine list and gave it The Wild Card — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
Wingman Metrics
The list at Piccola Cucina Estiatorio doesn't try to be everything to everyone — it's Italian through and through, with Sicily taking up more real estate than anywhere else on the peninsula. For a cozy SoHo spot with tight tables and a lively din, the wine list punches well above its weight class. Wine Spectator handed them a Best of Award of Excellence in 2024, and honestly, the Sicilian depth alone earns it.
The Etna section is the real draw here — Benanti, Cornelissen, and Passopisciaro all in one place is a Nerello Mascalese trifecta that most Italian restaurants in this city couldn't pull off. Nero d'Avola gets similarly serious treatment with Gulfi, COS, and Planeta representing the grape's range from earthy and structured to ripe and approachable. The mainland shows up with conviction too: Giacomo Conterno and Vietti for Barolo, Biondi-Santi and Poggio di Sotto for Brunello — these are names that belong on serious lists, not afterthoughts. Whites are lean but smart, with Benanti's Carricante and Grillo-based options giving the volcanic white wine crowd something to get excited about.
With 12-18 pours on rotation, the by-the-glass program gives you a real window into the list rather than a consolation prize. We'd expect Sicilian representation front and center — a Nerello or a Grillo would be the move here. The range of price points makes it workable whether you're splitting a quick pasta or settling in for the night.
Cerasuolo di Vittoria (COS or Valle dell'Acate) — $55
Cerasuolo di Vittoria is one of Italy's most undervalued DOCG wines — Nero d'Avola and Frappato together make something bright, food-friendly, and genuinely interesting. At this price point in SoHo, it's a relative steal compared to the Barolo crowd at the other end of the list.
Benanti Carricante (Etna Bianco)
Most people come here and immediately gravitate toward the reds, but Benanti's Carricante from the eastern slopes of Etna is a white wine with mineral tension and a saline edge that you don't find in many restaurant lists. It's the kind of bottle you remember.
Brunello di Montalcino (Biondi-Santi)
Biondi-Santi is a legendary producer and the Brunello is excellent — but SoHo restaurant markup on a bottle that's already expensive at retail means you're paying a serious premium for the privilege. Save it for a wine shop or a splurge dinner where the full experience around the bottle matches the price tag.
Passopisciaro Etna Rosso + Pasta
Etna Rosso's high-acid, volcanic-mineral backbone is built for tomato-driven pasta. Passopisciaro brings structure and a smoky depth that cuts through richness without fighting the dish — it's the kind of pairing that feels inevitable once you've had it.
The Bottom Line
Piccola Cucina Estiatorio is the rare SoHo restaurant where the wine list actually has a point of view — and that view is firmly planted on the slopes of Etna. If Sicily is your thing, or you want it to become your thing, this list is worth the trip.
NoHo · New York · Italian
Il Buco has one of the most compelling Italian wine lists in New York City — deep, principled, and staffed by people who actually care. The markup is real, so budget accordingly, but this is a room worth splurging in.
Deep & Eclectic
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Downtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Downtown is a place where people order Champagne to celebrate, not to drink — and the wine program is built accordingly. If you're here for the vibe and someone else is paying, pop the Dom and enjoy it; if you actually care about what's in your glass, you're in the wrong room.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Upscale Seafood & Steakhouse
Three happy hour wines do not a wine program make. Ocean Prime is a place you eat well and drink safely — but if wine is a priority, this list will let you down before the bread basket arrives.
Grocery Store
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Occasional
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Midtown is a great place to see and be seen, but the wine list is there to pad the check, not to excite you. If you're here for the experience, lean on the cocktails or grab a glass of Bonanza at the bar — don't expect the bottle list to reward any real curiosity.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown West · New York · Russian-American
The Russian Tea Room treats wine as an afterthought dressed up in Champagne flutes — five famous labels at punishing prices with no range, no by-the-glass program, and no apparent curiosity about wine beyond what looks impressive on a table. Go for the spectacle, order the caviar, but don't come here expecting a wine list.
Grocery Store
Gouge
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
David Burke Tavern's list is a Chardonnay lover's comfort zone with a solid sparkling section propping up the top — but the narrow focus and steep pricing mean you're paying for familiarity, not discovery. Send a friend here if they want California whites and a glass of Champagne; send them somewhere else if they want to explore.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Buckhead · Atlanta · Italian
Cucina Baci earns its place as a reliable neighborhood Italian — the kind of spot where the wine list won't blow your mind but it won't embarrass you either. If you're going for the pizza, the pasta, and the warm room energy, order something Italian and red and let the evening do the work. We'd want a full look at the list before calling it anything more than that.
Plays It Safe
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· Healdsburg · Italian
Ciao Bruto is running one of the smallest and most coherent wine lists in wine country, which is either audacious or brilliant — probably both. If you want a 200-label deep-dive, go somewhere else. If you want eight smart picks at prices that won't make you wince, this is the move in Healdsburg.
Small but Thoughtful
Steal
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Geyserville · Healdsburg · Italian
Diavola earns its Wild Card badge because it's a wood-fired pizza joint that punches well above its weight on wine — sommelier on staff, regional focus, and a setting that practically demands you order a second glass. We can't give you the bottle-by-bottle breakdown until we get eyes on a current list, but the bones here are good enough to say: don't just order a beer and move on.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.
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