Small Italian list, big curatorial swagger
· Atlanta · Italian · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · June 28, 2026
RagingWine reviewed No. 246’s wine list and gave it The Wild Card — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
Wingman Metrics
Sixteen bottles, all by the glass — No. 246 is playing a different game than your standard Italian spot. This isn't a list that's trying to impress you with length; it's trying to impress you with choices, and mostly it works. There's genuine intention here, which is more than we can say for most neighborhood Italian joints.
The list leans Italian without being myopic — you've got Nada Dolcetto d'Alba, Antoniolo Nebbiolo, and Cincinnato Nero Buono anchoring the reds, while the whites make a case for northern Italy with Via Alpina Pinot Grigio and the genuinely interesting Idlewild Arneis+. California shows up via Routestock Chardonnay and Breaking Bread Zinfandel, which feel like menu obligers more than passion picks, but they're not offensive. The real standout is the Produttori di Manduria Fiano — a southern Italian white from a co-op producer that most restaurants wouldn't bother hunting down. There's also a Zero Spirit section, which signals that someone here is paying attention to the full beverage experience, not just the wine list checkbox.
Every single bottle on the list is available by the glass, ranging from $11 to $21 — that's the whole program, no bottle-only gatekeeping. The range is genuinely solid for a 16-option list: sparkling, white, rosé, and red are all covered, with price points that don't punish you for exploring. Rotation data isn't clear, but the vintage specificity (multiple 2024s and a 2025 already listed) suggests this list gets updated with some regularity.
Nada Dolcetto d'Alba 2023 — $21
Nada is a respected Piedmontese producer, and Dolcetto d'Alba rarely gets the credit it deserves — it's food-friendly, approachable, and typically underpriced relative to its Barolo and Barbaresco neighbors. At $21 a glass for a legit northern Italian red from a quality house, this is where we'd start.
Idlewild Arneis+ 2024
Idlewild makes California wine inspired by northern Italy, and their Arneis+ is the kind of thing that makes Italian wine nerds do a double take. Arneis is already a niche grape; Idlewild's version adds even more intrigue with their plus-blending approach. Most tables at an Italian restaurant will default to Pinot Grigio and never see this on the list — their loss.
Routestock Chardonnay 2024
Nothing wrong with Routestock exactly, but it's the most generic pick on an otherwise thoughtful list. In a room full of Italian-leaning and adventurous options, ordering a California Chardonnay here feels like going to a great ramen shop and asking for the plain broth. Save your glass for something you can't get anywhere else.
Cincinnato Nero Buono 2023 + Pasta with braised meat ragù
Nero Buono is a rustic Lazio red with enough dark fruit and structure to stand up to a rich, slow-cooked meat sauce without bulldozing it. It's the kind of old-world pairing that feels inevitable once you try it — earthy grape, earthy dish, everyone wins.
The Bottom Line
No. 246 does more with 16 bottles than most restaurants do with 60, and the all-by-the-glass format means you're free to wander. Send your adventurous friends here and tell them to skip the Chardonnay.
· Atlanta · Mediterranean
Elektra's list is small and smart — a rare combination. The commitment to Greek, Lebanese, and Southern French producers gives it a personality most restaurants with three times the selection can't claim. If you're in the mood to drink something you haven't tried before without getting lectured about it, this list holds up.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· Atlanta · Modern Latin
Botanico isn't trying to out-depth the wine bars — it's building a short, intentional list that mirrors its Modern Latin identity, and mostly it works. The by-the-glass availability is excellent, the producers are genuinely interesting, and the Vale de Bomfim and Monte Xanic chenin blanc alone are worth the detour. Markups keep this from being a steal, but if you're here for the food and want a wine that actually makes sense with it, you won't be left stranded.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Buckhead · Atlanta · Italian
Cucina Baci earns its place as a reliable neighborhood Italian — the kind of spot where the wine list won't blow your mind but it won't embarrass you either. If you're going for the pizza, the pasta, and the warm room energy, order something Italian and red and let the evening do the work. We'd want a full look at the list before calling it anything more than that.
Plays It Safe
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· Atlanta · New American / Tasting Menu
Choose your courses, then choose your glasses. Bacchanalia's posted pairings give you concrete options: Carl Loewen Riesling at $24 with crab, or Ca' La Bionda Ripasso at $27 with duck. Ask which suggestions match tonight's menu before committing to the wine bill.
Midtown · Atlanta · Southern European
Start with the $14 Vostinic-Klasnic Ikons if you want to explore beyond familiar grapes, or the $16 chilled La Galoche Gamay if that's your lane. Lyla Lila's posted glass list makes trying something different a one-glass decision, not a whole-bottle commitment.
· Atlanta · New American
Siren has a wine list that punches above its weight in a few key areas — particularly the by-the-glass whites and the Champagne bottle program — but the markup structure means you're spending real money to access it. If you're the kind of diner who wants to order Furmint on a Tuesday night in Atlanta, this is one of the few places that makes that possible, and that alone earns it a spot on the shortlist.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· Aspen · Italian
Mezzaluna's wine list is a missed opportunity in a town that could easily support something far more interesting. The markups are real — Santa Margherita at $64 and Joel Gott Cab at $60 are doing the heavy lifting on margin — and the selection never ventures beyond brands your parents recognize. If you're eating here, drink the Frescobaldi or the Ruffino Riserva and call it a night; don't expect the list to surprise you.
Grocery Store
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Logan Square · Chicago · Italian
For a bottle night, start with Thursday's advertised half-price selection. Wednesday's posted four-course menu is $55 with an optional $30 wine pairing, before other charges. The restaurant discloses a 3.75% administrative fee on guest checks; confirm current terms when booking.
Back Bay · Boston · Italian
Keep a white-glass budget below $20 with the posted Bollini or CasalFarneto options. Want reserve Nebbiolo? Compare the $36 Barbaresco with the $46 Barolo after checking pour sizes. Menu-based guidance checked in September 2026; prices and availability can change.
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.
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