Ellerbe Fine Foods

Eight hundred and sixty-six labels in Fort Worth, Texas — on Magnolia Avenue, no less. You open the wine list expecting a modest collection and instead find yourself staring at Bereche & Fils Champagne and Giaconda Shiraz sitting quietly next to a rotating cast of Italian whites. This is not the wine list you were expecting, and that's exactly the point.

The list skews heavily toward California and France — Burgundy, Champagne, Alsace, Provence all represented with actual intent — but the Italian and Australian sections punch above their weight with producers like Umani Ronchi and Giaconda's Warner Vineyard Shiraz. Oregon shows up via Van Duzer Pinot Gris, and the Champagne section alone, anchored by Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve and Bereche & Fils, would embarrass most Dallas wine bars. The gaps are minor: South America and Spain feel thin, but with 866+ labels, nobody's going home empty-handed. There's a sommelier on staff, and the selection reflects it — this is a curated list, not a distributor dump.

Eighteen-plus options by the glass is generous for this ZIP code, spanning $10 to $35 and covering enough ground to satisfy a table of four with wildly different tastes. The range includes sparkling, whites, and reds with enough regional variety that you're not just picking between two Chardonnays and a Cab. We'd like to see more rotation and a BTG program with some stated seasonal intention, but what's here is solid.