Sacred Bottles in a Cathedral of Cool
East Village · New York · French, Mediterranean
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 8, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Cathédrale’s wine list and gave it The Rager — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
Wingman Metrics
Walking into Cathédrale, the wine list hits about the same time as the soaring ceiling — both are trying to tell you something about ambition. This is a TAO Group property that decided to actually take wine seriously, and the result is a 400-600 bottle list that earns its Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence without leaning on it as a crutch. Burgundy is the obvious obsession here, and they don't pretend otherwise.
The Burgundy section reads like a greatest-hits collection with actual depth — Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Henri Jayer, Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Leroy, and Raveneau Chablis all present and accounted for. California gets its due with Screaming Eagle, Opus One, and Kistler Chardonnay holding down the New World corner. Bordeaux shows up with heavyweights like Château Pétrus and Château Léoville-Las Cases, while Domaine Weinbach and Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet round out a France-first philosophy that feels intentional rather than reflexive. The gaps are minor — this is a list built for serious drinkers who also want a great dinner.
With 20-35 options running $15-$35, the by-the-glass program is unusually thoughtful for a restaurant of this size and energy. You're not stuck choosing between a forgettable Pinot Grigio and a grocery-store Cabernet — the same seriousness applied to the bottle list clearly informed the pours. Rotation appears to exist but isn't formally structured, so ask Jedrzej or Chase what's moving before you default to a menu pick.
Domaine Weinbach Alsace — $60-$90 (estimated bottle range)
In a list dominated by triple-digit Burgundy and cult Cali Cabs, Weinbach's Alsace offerings represent the smartest spend on the menu — complex, food-friendly, and priced without the prestige tax that everything else carries.
Raveneau Chablis
Most tables at Cathédrale are ordering Burgundy reds or California showstoppers, which means Raveneau's Chablis gets overlooked. That's a mistake — this is benchmark Chardonnay that cuts through the richer French-Mediterranean dishes with the kind of precision the big reds can't offer.
Opus One
Opus One is a perfectly good wine that has been marked up to perfectly absurd levels at every restaurant that carries it, and Cathédrale is not the exception. You're paying a name tax here. The list has better options at every price point.
Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin + Ribeye Steak au Poivre
Rousseau's Gevrey-Chambertin has the structure and earthy depth to stand up to a peppercorn-crusted ribeye without either one steamrolling the other — this is a classic for a reason, and at Cathédrale you have access to one of the best producers making it.
The Bottom Line
Cathédrale is one of the rare high-energy, high-design New York dining rooms where the wine list is genuinely worth your attention — not just a revenue mechanism dressed up in leather binding. Yes, you'll pay for it, but the depth, the staff knowledge, and the sheer range of serious producers make this worth a detour for anyone who cares about what's in the glass.
NoHo · New York · Italian
Il Buco has one of the most compelling Italian wine lists in New York City — deep, principled, and staffed by people who actually care. The markup is real, so budget accordingly, but this is a room worth splurging in.
Deep & Eclectic
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Downtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Downtown is a place where people order Champagne to celebrate, not to drink — and the wine program is built accordingly. If you're here for the vibe and someone else is paying, pop the Dom and enjoy it; if you actually care about what's in your glass, you're in the wrong room.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Upscale Seafood & Steakhouse
Three happy hour wines do not a wine program make. Ocean Prime is a place you eat well and drink safely — but if wine is a priority, this list will let you down before the bread basket arrives.
Grocery Store
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Occasional
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Midtown is a great place to see and be seen, but the wine list is there to pad the check, not to excite you. If you're here for the experience, lean on the cocktails or grab a glass of Bonanza at the bar — don't expect the bottle list to reward any real curiosity.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown West · New York · Russian-American
The Russian Tea Room treats wine as an afterthought dressed up in Champagne flutes — five famous labels at punishing prices with no range, no by-the-glass program, and no apparent curiosity about wine beyond what looks impressive on a table. Go for the spectacle, order the caviar, but don't come here expecting a wine list.
Grocery Store
Gouge
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
David Burke Tavern's list is a Chardonnay lover's comfort zone with a solid sparkling section propping up the top — but the narrow focus and steep pricing mean you're paying for familiarity, not discovery. Send a friend here if they want California whites and a glass of Champagne; send them somewhere else if they want to explore.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Wheaton · Wheaton · French, Mediterranean
A French creperie in the Chicago suburbs with a sommelier, a focused French wine list, and Wine Spectator's blessing — this is the Wild Card the western suburbs didn't know they needed. Send your most skeptical friend, order the fondue, and let Sheila pick the bottle.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Las Vegas Strip · Las Vegas · French, Mediterranean
LPM is a legitimate wine destination by Las Vegas Strip standards — the Burgundy-forward list has real bones, sommelier Karla Poeschel keeps it credible, and a newly minted Wine Spectator Award of Excellence confirms this isn't just hotel filler. Markups are what they are in this zip code, but the quality is there if you spend wisely.
Solid Range
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Sag Harbor · Sag Harbor · French, Mediterranean
Lulu is a legitimate wine destination for Sag Harbor — the French focus is earned, the high-end Rhône and Burgundy names add real credibility, and the overall program is thoughtful enough to send a friend here specifically for the wine. Markups lean Hamptons-steep, so pick carefully, but the bones of this list are genuinely good.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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