Rooftop glamour with a serious cellar underneath
Baltimore · Baltimore · American · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 7, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Bygone’s wine list and gave it The Rager — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
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Wingman Metrics
You're on the rooftop of the Four Seasons Baltimore, staring at the harbor, and then the wine list lands on the table — and it's immediately clear this place takes the bottle as seriously as the view. Four hundred-plus selections, a dedicated sommelier in Peter Chwazik, and a Best of Award of Excellence held since 2018: this isn't a wine list assembled by someone clicking around Wine.com at midnight. It has intention.
The list leans hard into its strengths — Burgundy and Champagne are the twin pillars here, with names like Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet, Domaine Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges, and Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin anchoring the French side. California gets real estate too, with Ridge Monte Bello, Kistler Chardonnay, and Opus One showing up for the crowd that wants a conversation starter on the table. Bordeaux is represented by Château Lynch-Bages, which is a reliable signal that someone in the program actually understands Pauillac. The list doesn't wander much into natural wine or off-the-beaten-path regions, so if you're hunting for Jura or skin-contact Georgian amber, you're in the wrong zip code — but for what it does, it does extremely well.
Twenty to thirty-five options by the glass is a strong program, and at $14–$28 a pour, there's real range without forcing you to commit to a full bottle on a Tuesday. Billecart-Salmon Champagne by the glass alone is worth noting — that's a smart pour that a lot of restaurants at this level still fumble by going house-tier on bubbles. We'd push for more rotation to keep regulars engaged, but the baseline is high.
Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin — $90–$120 estimated
Jadot's Gevrey-Chambertin is a reliable, well-distributed Burgundy that gives you genuine Côte de Nuits character without requiring a second mortgage. In a list that reaches all the way to DRC, this is the bottle where you get the terroir story without the trophy price tag.
Domaine Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges
Faiveley doesn't get the same breathless attention as some Burgundy marquee names, but their Nuits-Saint-Georges is structured, age-worthy, and often undersold at restaurants like this where the DRC and Leflaive get all the eye contact. Order this and look like you know something.
Opus One
Opus One is a fine wine in the right context, but at a Four Seasons rooftop restaurant it's going to be marked up to a point where you're paying heavily for the label recognition. The Ridge Monte Bello next to it on the list is a more interesting bottle at almost certainly better relative value — and it'll start a better conversation.
Kistler Vineyards Chardonnay + Pan-seared duck breast
Kistler's Chardonnay has enough weight and texture to stand up to duck fat and seared skin without getting lost, and the wine's restrained oak and bright acidity cut through richness in a way that lighter whites can't manage. It's a slightly unexpected call — most people reach for red with duck — but it works.
The Bottom Line
Bygone is the kind of wine list that makes Baltimore dinner reservations worth planning around. The markups are real, but the depth, the sommelier, and the setting make this one of the better places to spend money on a serious bottle on the East Coast.
Clipper Mill · Baltimore · American, Farm to Table
True Chesapeake is a Wild Card in the best possible sense — a working waterfront oyster spot with a Wine Spectator-recognized list helmed by a sommelier who clearly cares. Go for the oysters, stay for the Weinbach, and don't skip the Muscadet.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Horseshoe Casino · Baltimore · Steak house, European
Gordon Ramsay Steak isn't going to surprise you, but it delivers a solid, award-backed California-and-France wine list in a setting where you'd half-expect to be handed a laminated card with three options. For a casino steakhouse in Baltimore, that's genuinely worth something.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Harbor East · Baltimore · Steak House
The Ruxton is the rare steakhouse where the wine list is a genuine reason to show up, not just a formality next to the beef. Send a friend here, tell them to skip the Caymus, and let Patrick Owens point them somewhere better.
Deep & Eclectic
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Little Italy · Baltimore · Italian
La Tavola isn't a wine destination, but it earns its keep as a solid neighborhood Italian with a list that at least respects where the kitchen is coming from. Order the Vermentino, enjoy the Shrimp & Calamari, and don't overthink it.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Mount Vernon · Baltimore · Afghan
The Helmand isn't a wine destination, but it's a Wild Card worth betting on — a 30-year-old Afghan institution that's put enough thought into its list to make the right bottle genuinely accessible. Go for the Cigare Volant, order the lamb, and enjoy the fact that this place still exists.
Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Baltimore · Baltimore · Contemporary Bistro
Citron is a quiet overachiever on the Baltimore wine scene — fair pricing, a genuinely curious list, and a Tuesday half-price program that should have more people through the door. If you're within driving distance on a Tuesday night, there's almost no reason not to go.
Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Active Program
Acceptable
Eagle Ranch · Vail · American
The Wild Sage is your dependable neighborhood spot in Eagle Ranch — the wine list won't blow your mind, but it won't embarrass you at dinner either. Watch the markups on the top-shelf Napa bottles and stick to the mid-range, and you'll be fine.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Downtown Waterfront · Traverse City · American
Warehouse Kitchen + Cork won't win any awards for depth or ambition, but it plays its hand honestly — fair prices, solid local representation, and a full by-the-glass program that respects your wallet. If you're in Traverse City and want a glass of something local with a water view, this works.
Crowd Pleasers
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
West Truckee · Truckee · American
Sunnyside is a casual lodge restaurant wearing a serious wine list under its flannel — the markup is steep and it won't win any awards for staff expertise, but the producer lineup is legitimately impressive for where you're sitting. If you're already at the lake, this is absolutely worth ordering a real bottle.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Occasional
Acceptable
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