Grandma's Basement Called, It Wants Its Wine Back
Payne-Phalen · St. Paul · Italian · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed June 25, 2026
Wingman Metrics
Yarusso Bros has been feeding St. Paul's East Side since 1933, and the wine list reads like it hasn't been touched since about 1987. You're not here for a wine revelation — you're here for red-checkered tablecloths and a bowl of minestrone that tastes like someone's nonna made it. The wine list is essentially a footnote.
The list clocks in somewhere between 20 and 40 bottles, which sounds reasonable until you see what's on it. Italy and California are the stated focus, but the execution leans heavily on mass-market brands — Cavit, Ecco Domani, Yellow Tail — the kind of stuff you'd find in the grocery store wine aisle between the pasta sauce and the paper towels. There's no real regional depth, no interesting producers, and no sign that anyone curating this list has spent time thinking about what might actually complement the kitchen's output. If you're hoping for a Sicilian Nero d'Avola or a proper Barbera to cut through the Sunday gravy, you're going to be disappointed.
The by-the-glass program runs 6 to 10 options, all priced between $5 and $6 a pour, which is at least honest about what you're getting. Cavit Pinot Grigio, Cavit Merlot, Ecco Domani, Beringer White Zinfandel, Yellow Tail Chardonnay — it's a greatest hits of inoffensive, forgettable wine. Rotation appears to be nonexistent; this list is set and left alone.
Ecco Domani Pinot Grigio — $6
At $6 a glass, it's a step above the Cavit and actually retails for nearly $11 a bottle, so the per-glass math is about as fair as this list gets. Light, neutral, and cold — it does the job alongside a plate of pasta without demanding your attention.
Ecco Domani Merlot
Nobody orders Merlot at a place like this, which means it probably moves slowly and is served in decent condition. Soft, low-tannin, and approachable — it actually works with the tomato-heavy menu better than you'd expect from a $6 glass wine.
Beringer White Zinfandel
Sweet, pink, and proud of it — but at a 214% markup on a bottle that retails under $7, you're paying restaurant prices for a wine that belongs at a gas station picnic. Order a Peroni instead.
Ecco Domani Merlot + Spaghetti and Meatballs
The merlot's soft fruit and low acidity don't fight the sweet tomato sauce, and the light body keeps it from overwhelming the meat. It's not a sophisticated pairing — but neither is spaghetti and meatballs, and that's exactly the point.
❌ The Bottom Line
Yarusso Bros is a St. Paul institution worth visiting for the food, the history, and the vibe — just don't make the wine the reason you go. Order a glass of whatever's cold, eat the meatballs, and enjoy it for what it is.
Cathedral Hill / Summit Avenue · St. Paul · Wine Bar / Retail with Food Pop-Ups
Solo Vino is the kind of wine shop that moonlights as a destination, and the tasting bar makes it worth the trip even if you don't buy a bottle — though you will. Send your wine-curious friends here before they spend the same money on something forgettable at a restaurant down the street.
Deep & Eclectic
Fair
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Seasonal Rotation
Proper
Macalester-Groveland · St. Paul · Mediterranean and Middle Eastern
Shish is a genuinely good casual Mediterranean spot — the food earns its reputation on Grand Avenue. But the wine list is strictly utilitarian, and you'd be better served ordering a beer or skipping the wine altogether until they decide to put in some effort.
Grocery Store
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Macalester-Groveland · St. Paul · French Bistro
Bon Vie Bistro isn't trying to be a wine destination and doesn't pretend to be — but it gets the fundamentals right, keeps prices honest, and makes an easy case for a $10 Bordeaux with your quiche. Send your friends here when they want a relaxed weeknight pour without the markup guilt.
Plays It Safe
Steal
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Downtown · St. Paul · New American
Citizen is a competent hotel wine list doing exactly what a hotel wine list is supposed to do — keep everyone comfortable and no one too excited. If you're here for the view and a pre-dinner glass, the rosé section will take care of you; just don't come expecting discovery.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Cathedral Hill · St. Paul · American, gourmet burgers & pub fare
Red Cow St. Paul has no business having a wine list this good, and that's exactly why we like it. Send a friend here — just make sure they know to skip the Bollinger and go straight for the Muscadet.
Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Occasional
Acceptable
Downtown · St. Paul · Italian
Buca di Beppo's wine list is exactly what you'd expect from a corporate Italian chain: safe, familiar, and overpriced for what you get. Order the Chianti, enjoy the meatballs, and don't overthink it — but don't come here expecting the wine to be part of the experience.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
West Toledo / Reynolds Corner · Toledo · Italian
There's one reason to come here for wine: Thursday. Half-price bottles on a standing weekly basis is a genuinely good deal, especially on the Santa Margherita. Any other night, the markups are steep and the list doesn't justify them.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Seasonal Rotation
Acceptable
West Toledo/Monroe Street · Toledo · Italian
Carrabba's Toledo isn't a destination for wine — but it's not an embarrassment either. The Ruffino Chianti Classico alone earns its keep, and if you stick to the Italian side of the list, you'll drink reasonably well without drama.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
La Jolla · Chula Vista · Italian
Marisi is a reliable Italian wine list with genuine ambition hiding behind a steep markup structure — the producers are right, the regions are right, but you'll pay for the privilege. Go for the Produttori Barbaresco and the Pre-Phylloxera Barbera, and you'll leave satisfied.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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