Seline

Sixty-two labels sounds modest until you realize this list was curated with a point of view — grower Champagne runs deep, the by-the-glass options skew aggressively weird in the best way, and someone here is clearly cooking. This is not the generic fine-dining wine wall of the usual suspects; it's a considered statement.

The Champagne section alone justifies the visit: Agrapart, Pierre Péters, Mouzon-Leroux, Marc Hébrart, Famille Moussé — these are grower names that most restaurants in LA can't even spell correctly, let alone stock. Outside Champagne, the list pivots to thoughtful European producers (Bandol, Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses, Priorat) and leans into low-intervention California with the Jolie Laide collaborations, including a house-exclusive Trousseau Gris made specifically for Seline. The gaps are real — no serious depth in Italy or Germany — but the wines that are here feel genuinely chosen rather than default-ordered. The top end stretches to the Pierre Péters Les Chétillons 2017 at $620 and Marc Hébrart Clos Le Léon 2016 at $600, which is pricey but these are legitimate prestige bottles, not trophy-wine theater.

Nine pours covering sparkling, white, rosé, red, and dessert wine — and not a single Caymus or Kim Crawford in sight. The glass list opens at $25 (the Jolie Laide Trousseau Gris or the Bandol) and tops out at $50 for the Domaine Casenobe Rivesaltes 1970, which is a legitimately rare dessert pour that most wine bars would bury at the back of a bottle list. The Philipponnat Réserve Perpétuelle at $40/glass is a sharp way to open a tasting menu without committing to a bottle.