Républiqué

The wine list at Républiqué lands on your table like a small novel — hundreds of labels across more than 100 pages — and it's immediately clear this kitchen cares as much about what's in your glass as what's on your plate. The room itself sets the tone: vaulted ceilings, warm light, and the faint ghost of old Hollywood all conspire to make you want to order something serious. This is one of the few places in LA where cracking a proper Burgundy doesn't feel performative.

France is the spine of this list, and Burgundy is the heart of France here — both the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune get real depth, with producers like Bruno Clair, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, and Domaine Lafarge representing the kind of growers-who-actually-matter bench strength you'd expect from a dedicated wine program. Champagne is treated as a food wine rather than an afterthought, which tracks with sommelier Sarah Clarke's well-documented belief that it's one of the most versatile pairings in the room. The Italian side is where things get genuinely interesting: Alto Piemonte — Lessona, Gattinara, Boca — shows up with real commitment, which is still rare on LA lists that tend to default to Barolo and call it a day. If there's a gap, it's the New World: California and beyond feel like an obligatory footnote rather than a genuine editorial choice.

Around 10 to 16 pours by the glass in the $16–$28 range, with France and Italy anchoring the program. The by-the-glass list reads like it was curated by someone who actually drinks wine — not a rotating cast of safe Sauvignon Blanc and generic Malbec. Don't be surprised if the pour in front of you is the most interesting glass wine you've had at a restaurant all year.