Italian Soul, Denver Address, Zero Compromises
Denver · Denver · Italian · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed April 11, 2026
Wingman Metrics
Walking into Olivia, the wine list feels like it was curated by someone who actually loves Italian wine — not just someone who Googled 'Italian wine list template.' The range from Chianti Classico Riserva to Brunello to Amarone signals a kitchen and a cellar working in concert. This is a serious program tucked into a South Denver neighborhood spot, and that contrast is exactly what earns it a second look.
Italy dominates, and rightfully so — Piedmont shows up with Barolo, Tuscany delivers both Brunello di Montalcino and the Super Tuscan heavyweights Sassicaia and Ornellaia, and Amarone della Valpolicella rounds out the Italian peninsula tour. France isn't an afterthought either: Burgundy's Côte de Nuits makes a legitimate appearance, and Champagne holds its own. California gets a seat at the table through Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. At 150–250 bottles, this list doesn't sprawl into excess — it stays disciplined, which is exactly how you want a wine program to behave when the kitchen is doing real work. Sommeliers Shane Stuart and Ryan Graber are the hands behind this, and their fingerprints are visible in the intentionality of what made the cut.
With 12–20 options ranging from $12 to $25 a glass, the BTG program gives you enough rope to explore without hanging your wallet. That spread suggests you'll find something honest in the mid-teens that doesn't taste like it was poured from a box. What we'd want to know — and you should ask — is how often the list rotates; with a cellar this considered, there's no reason the glass pours should ever feel stale.
Chianti Classico Riserva — $45-$65 (bottle)
Chianti Classico Riserva at a well-run Italian restaurant is almost always the sweet spot — proper sangiovese structure, food-friendly acidity, and a price point that doesn't make you do mental math mid-dinner. At a place with this kitchen, it's the move.
Amarone della Valpolicella
Most people at an Italian spot gravitate toward the Barolo or default to Brunello — Amarone gets overlooked. It's a bigger, richer expression of Italian red that rewards attention, and at a restaurant this focused on Italian cuisine, the kitchen knows how to meet it.
Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
You're at an Italian restaurant with Barolo, Brunello, and Super Tuscans on the list. Ordering Napa Cab here is like going to a ramen shop and ordering fried rice — technically on the menu, definitely not the point, and almost certainly carrying a Denver fine-dining markup for the privilege.
Barolo + Bronze-die extruded gemelli with Umbrian sausage and pecorino cream
Barolo's firm tannins and tar-and-rose character need something with fat and weight to lean into — the Umbrian sausage and pecorino cream is exactly that. The wine cuts through the richness, the sausage softens the tannins, and you end up with something better than either element alone.
🎲 The Bottom Line
Restaurant Olivia is the kind of neighborhood Italian spot that quietly holds a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence and earns it without making a fuss about it. Send your friends who think Denver can't do wine right — this list will change the conversation.
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Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
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Plays It Safe
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Active Program
Acceptable
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Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Proper
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Surprising Depth
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Active Program
Proper
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Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Seasonal Rotation
Acceptable
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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