California classics meet Naples easy money
Mercato · Naples · American · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 12, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Old Vines Naples at Mercato’s wine list and gave it The Reliable — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
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Wingman Metrics
Old Vines lands in the middle of Mercato's shopping and dining hustle with a wine list that punches above its casual-fine-dining weight class. You open the menu and immediately see the hits — Caymus, Silver Oak, Opus One — and recognize this is a list built for the Naples crowd that knows what it wants and doesn't mind paying for it. It's comfortable, curated, and entirely unsurprising, which is both its strength and its ceiling.
The 200-plus bottle list leans hard into California and France, which tracks perfectly with their Wine Spectator Award of Excellence focus areas — and honestly, it's executed well enough to earn that credential. You've got the full California power roster: Far Niente Chardonnay, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Duckhorn Merlot, Jordan and Silver Oak Cabs, and Opus One sitting at the top like a trophy on a shelf. France shows up through Louis Jadot Burgundy and Chateau Margaux, giving the list some old-world credibility without going deep enough to call it a serious Bordeaux or Burgundy program. The gaps are real — natural wine, Rhône, Italy, Spain, and the Southern Hemisphere are largely absent — but what's here is well-chosen for the audience.
Twenty to thirty-five pours by the glass is genuinely impressive range, and the $12–$22 window keeps things approachable by Naples standards. We'd like to see more rotation and adventurous options in the glass program — right now it skews toward crowd-pleasing varietals — but the volume of choices means you're not stuck with a sad Sauvignon Blanc or a mystery Merlot. Ask what's open and fresh; that's always your best bet.
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon — $12–$22 by the glass
Jordan consistently overdelivers for its price point — structured, approachable, and actually interesting. Getting it by the glass here lets you enjoy a solid Alexander Valley Cab without committing to a bottle that would run you significantly more at retail.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling
In a room full of Napa Cabs and French reds, a Washington State Riesling is the last thing anyone orders — which is exactly why you should. Bright acidity, low alcohol, and genuinely food-friendly, it's the underdog on a list built for trophy hunters.
Opus One
Opus One is a great wine, but it's also the most marked-up bottle in every restaurant that carries it. You're paying for the name recognition here, not a special experience — and in a Naples dining room without a dedicated sommelier program, the occasion doesn't match the invoice.
Far Niente Chardonnay + Seafood Tartare
Far Niente's Chardonnay brings enough oak structure and richness to hold its own against the umami punch of raw seafood without bulldozing the delicate flavors. It's a classic California white doing exactly what a California white is supposed to do.
✔️ The Bottom Line
Old Vines is exactly what it needs to be for Mercato — a polished, reliable wine list with genuine depth in its California and French lanes, even if the pricing skews toward the Naples wallet and the list doesn't take many risks. Send a friend here if they want something they recognize done well; send a wine nerd elsewhere.
Naples · Naples · American
Warren is a whiskey bar that does wine correctly, which is more than most can say. Eric Gaboury and the Wine Spectator nod give it credibility, and if you stick to the California producers you know or let staff steer you toward the Burgundy shelf, you'll drink well with your steak.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Naples · Naples · American Steakhouse
Shula's is a genuinely impressive California Cab cellar wearing a classic steakhouse suit — the markups sting and the list doesn't wander far from Napa, but if that's your game, this is one of the better places to play it in Southwest Florida. Come on a Wednesday, order the Hillside Select, and stop overthinking it.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Varietal Specific
Willing but Green
Occasional
Proper
Marco Island · Naples · Italian
Sale E Pepe is the rare beachside Italian that takes its wine program as seriously as the frescoes on the walls — the Italian cellar depth is real, the WS credential is well-earned, and it's worth the trip even if the markups sting a little. Send your friends here for Barolo and osso buco; they'll thank you.
Deep & Eclectic
Steep
Varietal Specific
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Proper
Vanderbilt Beach · Naples · Gulf Coast Seafood
Baleen delivers exactly what a resort wine list should: no surprises, no risks, just reliable bottles at premium prices. If you're here for the sunset and fresh grouper, the wine program won't get in the way—but it won't elevate the meal either.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Stemless Casual
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Downtown Naples · Naples · Upscale Seafood & Steakhouse
Ocean Prime delivers exactly what it promises: a safe, corporate wine experience that won't embarrass your boss but won't surprise anyone either. Come for the scene and the seafood, order a cocktail, and if you must have wine, stick to the recognizable mid-tier bottles and don't look at the markup too closely.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Stemless Casual
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Naples · Naples · Continental
The Continental delivers exactly what its name promises: safe, continental European and American wines without surprises. It's fine for a business dinner where no one wants to think too hard, but wine lovers will find themselves ordering cocktails instead.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Stemless Casual
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Downtown Waterfront · Traverse City · American
Warehouse Kitchen + Cork won't win any awards for depth or ambition, but it plays its hand honestly — fair prices, solid local representation, and a full by-the-glass program that respects your wallet. If you're in Traverse City and want a glass of something local with a water view, this works.
Crowd Pleasers
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
West Truckee · Truckee · American
Sunnyside is a casual lodge restaurant wearing a serious wine list under its flannel — the markup is steep and it won't win any awards for staff expertise, but the producer lineup is legitimately impressive for where you're sitting. If you're already at the lake, this is absolutely worth ordering a real bottle.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Occasional
Acceptable
Chamblee · Atlanta · American
Lagarde's wine annex isn't going to show up on any must-visit wine destination lists, but it's doing the honest work of making good-enough wine accessible at fair prices with a few genuine bright spots buried in the lineup. Send a friend here who wants to try something a little off the beaten path without getting a lecture about it.
Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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