Mateo Bar de Tapas

Fearrington House is the rare Wine Spectator Award list that actually earns it — a deep, expertly managed cellar in a setting that has no business being this good. Yes, pricing at the top end is steep, but for a full tasting menu experience, this is as serious as it gets in the Carolinas.

M Sushi is a Wild Card in the best possible sense — a sushi counter in downtown Durham with an Old World wine list that actually respects the food it's serving. If you're willing to let go of the familiar and trust the list, this is one of the more satisfying wine experiences you'll find in the Triangle.

Foster's Market is a genuinely lovely café, and the wine program seems to know it's playing second fiddle — six house-label bottles at flat $15 pricing isn't a wine program so much as a courtesy. Order the coffee, eat the baked goods, and save your wine night for somewhere else.

Harvest 18 is a reliable neighborhood spot where the kitchen clearly outpaces the wine list. Come for the food, come on a Wednesday for the half-price bottles, and calibrate your expectations accordingly.

For a hotel restaurant, The Restaurant at The Durham is punching well above its weight class — Jura producers and Matthiasson on a downtown Durham wine list is genuinely surprising. The markups keep it from being a destination for wine alone, but if you're eating here anyway, you're in better hands than most hotel guests ever get.

Fairview is a reliable, well-run hotel wine program that does its job — it won't embarrass you on a date night or a client dinner, but it's not the reason to make the drive. Come for the occasion, drink the Jordan, and leave the exploration for another night.