David Chang's LA joint drinks better than expected
Chinatown / North Industrial DTLA · Los Angeles · Korean / New American · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed June 21, 2026
Wingman Metrics
Walking into Majordomo, you half-expect a wine list that's an afterthought to the smoked short rib — but it's not. The list lands somewhere between serious and playful, which is exactly right for a room that serves pa jeon next to large-format beef ribs. It earns your attention fast.
The list runs 150-250 labels deep with a genuine point of view: classic Old World anchors like Raveneau Chablis and Domaine Tempier Bandol sit alongside natural-leaning picks like Hiyu Wine Farm out of Oregon and Beaujolais cru producers that actually know what they're doing. There's even a David Chang collaboration red blend — Command + Conquer — that feels at home here rather than gimmicky. Gaps exist on the affordable end; the list skews toward the $100+ tier with fewer entry-level wins. But for a Korean-inflected American restaurant in an industrial DTLA warehouse, the depth and ambition are genuinely surprising.
The BTG program runs roughly 10-18 options, which is respectable range for a list this size. We didn't find verified glass prices, which is a transparency miss, but the selection appears to rotate with some intention rather than just defaulting to bulk Chardonnay and Cabernet. If the sommelier team is steering the glass list the way they've curated the bottles, it's worth asking what's pouring that night.
Beaujolais Cru (producer on list) — $60+
Beaujolais cru at a restaurant this caliber is almost always the smart move — bright, food-friendly, and chronically underordered, which means the markup pressure is lower. It's the bottle that makes your table look smart without wrecking the bill.
Hiyu Wine Farm
Most people walk past Oregon natural wine at a Korean-American restaurant without a second look, which is exactly why you should order it. Hiyu is a biodynamic farm in Hood River making some of the most interesting, textured wines in the Pacific Northwest — it earns its place on a list this serious.
Command + Conquer Red Blend
The David Chang collab is a fun story, but celebrity-adjacent wine at a restaurant that made it doesn't need your charity. The markup on a house-adjacent bottle is almost never kind, and the list has far more interesting bottles for the same or less money.
Domaine Tempier Bandol + Large-format smoked short rib
Tempier's Bandol — built on Mourvèdre — is one of the few wines that can actually stand up to deeply smoked, fatty beef without getting steamrolled. The wine's iron, herbs, and dark fruit push back on the richness and cut through the smoke. It's a serious pairing for a serious plate of meat.
🎲 The Bottom Line
Majordomo's wine list is the best argument for ignoring your preconceptions about a celebrity chef's LA warehouse restaurant — it's ambitious, well-curated, and staffed by people who actually care. Prices climb quickly, so go in with a budget in mind, but yes, send your wine-loving friends here.
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
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Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
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Deep & Eclectic
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
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Kassi Club is a party restaurant with a wine list that punches above its vibe — if you ignore the markup and order Greek, you're going to drink well. Send a friend here specifically to work through the indigenous varietals; just tell them to skip the Chablis.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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