Chang's Chinatown Joint Hides a Serious Cellar
Chinatown · Los Angeles · Asian, Californian · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 7, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Majordōmo’s wine list and gave it The Wild Card — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
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Wingman Metrics
You walk into a loud, industrial Chinatown warehouse expecting sake and Tsingtao, and then the wine list lands on the table — 400-plus bottles deep, with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Château Rayas sitting next to California cult Pinots. It's a genuine double-take moment. This is not the wine list that belongs here, and that's exactly the point.
The list is anchored in France, California, and Italy, and each pillar is built with real intention. Burgundy goes all the way up — Leroy and DRC are present if your credit card is feeling brave — while the Rhône section leans on heavyweights like Château Rayas and Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. California is equally serious, with Kistler and Williams Selyem on the Pinot side and Ridge and Opus One flying the Cabernet flag. Italy rounds things out with Giacomo Conterno and Bruno Giacosa covering Barolo and Barbaresco at the top end, and Champagne lovers have Krug and Billecart-Salmon to choose from. The gap, if there is one, is anything outside these three regions — don't come hunting for Iberian wines or anything too leftfield.
Twenty to thirty options by the glass is genuinely strong for a restaurant where most tables are splitting whole ducks and sharing rib cap — the pour program keeps pace with the format. Prices run $15 to $25 a glass, which is fair for the Los Angeles market and the caliber of producers in the building. Hana Liu runs the wine side of the house, and the glass list feels curated rather than just pulled from whatever's open.
Billecart-Salmon Champagne — $60+
Billecart-Salmon is a perennial overachiever in the Champagne category — consistently well-made, widely respected, and still priced below the prestige cuvées that dominate lists like this one. Against the backdrop of Krug, it's the smart call to start the table.
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Everyone fixates on the Burgundy section and walks right past the Rhône. Vieux Télégraphe is one of the most consistent estates in the appellation — structured, savory, and built to hold up against the rich, fatty proteins that Majordōmo's kitchen sends out. Most tables miss it entirely.
Opus One
Opus One is a perfectly fine Napa Cabernet that has been priced on brand recognition for decades. On a list this good, there are almost certainly better California reds at lower markups — and at a restaurant built around bold, spiced, umami-driven food, a plush Napa showcase Cab isn't the move anyway.
Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape + Whole roasted duck
Châteauneuf-du-Pape has the structure to cut through rendered duck fat and the earthy, herbal depth to match the kitchen's layered spice. Vieux Télégraphe specifically brings enough acidity to keep things lively across a long, communal meal — it doesn't fold under the weight of the dish the way a bigger Napa red might.
The Bottom Line
Majordōmo is the rare restaurant where the wine program genuinely surprises you — a Best of Award of Excellence list hiding inside a buzzy, communal Chinatown spot. Markups keep it from being a Rager, but Hana Liu's curation and the sheer depth of the cellar make it worth the detour.
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