Hinoki

The wine list at Hinoki lands like a serious statement — 350 to 500 bottles deep in a room that's supposed to be about sharing small plates and raw fish. It's the kind of list that makes you slow down before you order, because there are real decisions to be made here. Three sommeliers on staff (Jose M. Cuevas, Christopher Medyna, and Osvin A. Lucero) means someone at this restaurant actually cares, which in Greenwich is never guaranteed.

California and Burgundy anchor the list, and they do it unapologetically — Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Leroy Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet, and Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny on the French side; Kistler Chardonnay, Opus One, Screaming Eagle, and Harlan Estate flying the California flag. Italy shows up with purpose too — Gaja Barbaresco and Antinori Tignanello aren't filler picks, they're intentional. The depth is real, though the ceiling climbs fast past $1,000 on the prestige bottles, which will feel very natural to the Greenwich crowd and slightly dizzying to everyone else. Gaps in natural wine and broader European coverage are the only real knocks on an otherwise impressive build.

Twenty to thirty-five by-the-glass options is an ambitious pour program for an izakaya concept, and the range likely spans from approachable whites to something with actual terroir behind it. With a sommelier team this engaged, the glass list should rotate with purpose — ask what's open and let them steer you, because the answer will usually be better than pointing at the menu.