Mōlì

Walking into a Gustavino building dressed up like 1950s Shanghai, the last thing you expect is a wine list that could hold its own at a Michelin-starred room in Manhattan. But here we are — 300 to 500 bottles deep, with Screaming Eagle and DRC sitting on the same list as the Peking Duck. The room alone earns the drama; the wine list backs it up.

California and Burgundy are the twin engines here, and they're both running hot. You've got Opus One and Caymus Special Selection on the Napa side, Ridge Monte Bello for the crowd that knows better than to chase trophy labels, and Kistler Chardonnay doing quiet, serious work. Burgundy goes deep with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet — this isn't a wine list assembled by a purchasing manager hitting minimums, someone actually cares. Italy holds its own with Gaja Barbaresco and Sassicaia, and Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin rounds out a France section that earns Wine Spectator's Best of Award of Excellence handed out in 2025.

Twenty to thirty-five pours by the glass is a serious commitment, and at $15 to $30 a pour the range covers both the casual Tuesday diner and someone who wants to try something worth talking about. We'd love to see more rotation and a natural wine or two sneak in, but the depth is real and the program is actively managed by a three-person sommelier team — Jose Cuevas, Christopher Medyna, and Osvin Lucero — which means someone actually knows what's in those glasses.