Israeli Steakhouse With a Serious Wine Passport
Houston · Steakhouse · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · August 26, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Doris Metropolitan’s wine list and gave it The Wild Card — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
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Wingman Metrics
You open the wine list at what you assume is a straightforward steakhouse and immediately clock Nikolaihof Grüner Veltliner, Royal Tokaji Aszú, and a 40-year Mas Amiel Maury — this is not a list assembled by someone who just called a Sysco rep. There's a clear point of view here, and it leans old-world in a very Texas way. Sixty-seven labels isn't massive, but it punches above its weight class.
The list skims across France, Italy, Spain, Austria, Argentina, and even Israel — a nod to Doris's Tel Aviv roots with the Gush Etzion GSM from the Judean Hills. Burgundy gets representation via Drouhin-Vaudon Chablis, Bordeaux shows up with Chateau Charmail Haut-Médoc 2019, and California has a foothold with Marine Layer Pinot Noir and the Simon Cabernet. The dessert wine tail is genuinely impressive: Royal Tokaji, Borgo Scopeto Vin Santo, Graham's 20-year Tawny, and that Mas Amiel Maury sitting at 40 years old — that's four strong dessert pours in a steakhouse, which almost never happens. The gaps are mainly in Italy (Barbaresco is here but the mid-range Italian section is thin) and there's nothing terribly adventurous on the natural or orange wine front.
Twenty-one by-the-glass options is a generous pour program for a restaurant this size, and the range spans sparkling through dessert. The Simon Cabernet at $60 a glass is aggressive pricing even for Napa Oakville, but the Royal Tokaji Aszú at $16 and the Graham's 20-year Tawny at $25 are genuinely exciting glass pours you almost never see on a standard BTG list. The dessert glass section alone is worth the trip.
Chateau Charmail Haut-Médoc 2019 — $108
A 2019 Haut-Médoc from a reliable Cru Bourgeois producer at $108 is a fair call in a steakhouse context — this is the kind of Bordeaux that's built for red meat and doesn't require a second mortgage to enjoy.
Mas Amiel 'Bonbonnes Oxydatifs' 40 year Maury
A 40-year oxidative Maury from one of the great names in Roussillon at $50 a glass — most people have never heard of Mas Amiel and that's exactly why you should order it. Nutty, rancio, and completely unlike anything else on the table.
Simon Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2021
Sixty dollars a glass for a Napa Cab that doesn't have the name recognition to justify that price point. There are better ways to spend $60 on this list — or just order the bottle of Chateau Charmail for $108 and call it a win.
Gush Etzion 'GSM' Grenache Blend Judean Hills 2020 + Tomahawk Steak
The GSM's spiced fruit and earthy backbone hold their own against a big cut without the oak-bomb weight of a Napa Cab — and ordering a Judean Hills wine at an Israeli steakhouse just makes sense.
The Bottom Line
Doris Metropolitan's wine list is quietly one of the more interesting steakhouse lists in Houston — fair pricing, a globe-trotting selection with actual personality, and a dessert wine program that embarrasses most dedicated wine bars. We'd send a friend here with confidence.
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Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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The Marigold Club is Houston's most interesting new wine room for anyone who thinks Champagne is a food group and France is the only country that matters — in the best possible way. Go on a Sunday, order the Delamotte, eat the Duck Wellington, and tip generously.
Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Active Program
Proper
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Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Marmo is hiding a legitimately serious Italian wine program behind a piano bar and a plate of hand-rolled pasta — and that's exactly what makes it worth seeking out. Send a friend here if they think Houston Italian restaurants don't take wine seriously; this list will change their mind.
Deep & Eclectic
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
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Xochi is doing something genuinely rare: running a serious Mexican wine program inside a serious restaurant, with a sommelier who knows the material and a list that earns its Wine Spectator credential. Send your adventurous friends here and tell them to skip the Cab.
Surprising Depth
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
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STK San Francisco has the bones of a wine program and the ambition of a hotel minibar. With only three by-the-glass pours, a list built entirely around safe brand names, and steep markups baked into the concept, this is a place to order a cocktail or splurge on a specific bottle you already know you want.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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STK Bellevue is a reliable place to drink wine you already know at prices you'd rather not think about. If you're entertaining clients or celebrating something and need a list that won't confuse anyone, it gets the job done — just don't come here looking for discovery.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Halls Chophouse delivers what Greenville diners expect from a serious steakhouse: familiar labels, celebration-ready bottles, and prices that reflect the room. We'd love to see more adventurous pours and a real by-the-glass program, but for what it is, the list does its job without embarrassing anyone.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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