Devon Seafood + Steak

Sixty-five labels at a seafood steakhouse in Hershey, Pennsylvania — we weren't expecting much, but Devon earns a second look. The list is organized with clear intent: they've leaned into Rieslings and Pinot Noirs with more conviction than most places in this zip code. Pricing tops out at $265 but stays surprisingly reasonable across the middle of the list.

The white wine section is legitimately interesting for a steakhouse chain — a Riesling lineup that runs from Chateau Ste. Michelle ($35) all the way up to St. Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett 2018 ($70), which tells you someone in charge actually cares about aromatic whites. Pinot Noir gets the most real estate on the red side, with six-plus options spanning California, Oregon-adjacent producers, and a Hawkes Bay outlier in the Decibel ($75) that shows a bit of range. Merlot representation is solid — Markham Napa 2019 at $63 is a fair price for a reliable bottle — though the Zin section reads more like grocery store grab-and-go than a deliberate choice. There are gaps in Cabernet, Rhône-style reds, and anything European outside of the whites, which limits the list for red meat occasions.

Thirty-three by-the-glass options is a legitimately impressive number — most steakhouses in this category pour eight and call it a day. We don't have the full glass list, but with prices running $7–$17, there's clearly room to explore without committing to a bottle. Rotation looks static rather than seasonal, but the sheer volume of pours means you can probably find something that works.