Old-school South Side charm, safe wine bets
South Side · Des Moines · Italian-American · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed June 20, 2026
Wingman Metrics
The wine list at Baratta's is exactly what you'd expect from a beloved neighborhood Italian joint that's been around forever — familiar names, approachable prices on paper, and zero surprises. It reads like someone raided a mid-tier grocery store wine aisle and called it a day. That's not a knock on the restaurant itself, which is genuinely charming, but the wine program isn't trying to impress anyone.
The list leans heavily on California workhorses — Josh Cellars, Kendall-Jackson, Meiomi, Robert Mondavi Private Selection — with a nod to Italy via Santa Margherita and Astoria Pinot Grigio, and a brief Oregon Pinot Noir section that at least gestures toward something more interesting. Justin from Paso Robles is the lone producer that suggests someone on staff has at least glanced at a wine map. There's no real cellar depth here, no discovery bottles, and the Italian restaurant identity doesn't translate into an adventurous Italian wine program. What you get is a Greatest Hits compilation that works for the crowd Baratta's draws — and that crowd seems genuinely happy about it.
The by-the-glass program runs about 8–10 options in the $6–$10 range, which keeps the entry point friendly for a casual weeknight pasta dinner. The selection mirrors the bottle list — think Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Cab, Pinot Noir — nothing rotating, nothing seasonal. It gets the job done without asking too much of anyone.
Meiomi Pinot Noir — $36
At roughly a 2x retail markup, Meiomi is the least painful bottle on the list relative to what you'd pay elsewhere. It's not a complex wine, but it's consistent, fruit-forward, and plays nicely with heavier pasta dishes. By Baratta's markup standards, this is the closest thing to a deal.
Astoria 'Alisia' Pinot Grigio
Most people will reflexively reach for the Santa Margherita, but the Astoria Alisia at $26 drinks from the same Italian Pinot Grigio playbook at nearly half the price. It's a lesser-known label that quietly overdelivers for anyone not just buying the brand name.
Proverb Rosé
A 200% markup on an $8 retail bottle is the steepest hit on the list. Proverb is fine — perfectly drinkable patio rosé — but at $24 a bottle you're paying almost three times what a wine shop would charge. Order a glass of something else or skip rosé entirely.
Meiomi Pinot Noir + Homemade Pasta with meat sauce
Meiomi's ripe, slightly jammy California style softens the acidity of a red meat sauce without fighting it. It's not a cerebral pairing, but it's a crowd-pleaser that mirrors the comfort-food energy of the dish — which is exactly why you came to Baratta's in the first place.
✔️ The Bottom Line
Baratta's is a South Side institution worth visiting for the homemade pasta and the neighborhood warmth — just don't expect the wine list to match the kitchen's effort. The markups are steeper than they need to be on a list that isn't trying very hard, so order wisely, lean on the lower-priced bottles, and let the food do the talking.
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Crowd Pleasers
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Seasonal Rotation
Acceptable
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Occasional
Acceptable
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Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Active Program
Acceptable
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Grocery Store
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Plays It Safe
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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The Col d'Orcia Brunello and Bertani Amarone suggest someone, somewhere, tried — but the surrounding list is chain-restaurant autopilot and the markups don't reward your loyalty. Order the breadsticks, nurse the Amarone, and keep your expectations exactly where the laminated menu set them.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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