Old World ambition on a Wisconsin side street
Williamson Street · Madison · Mediterranean · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · March 31, 2026
RagingWine reviewed A Pig in a Fur Coat’s wine list and gave it The Wild Card — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
Wingman Metrics
The wine list at A Pig in a Fur Coat feels like it was curated by someone who actually drinks wine and gets genuinely excited about it — not someone filling a checklist. Thirty labels isn't a deep cellar, but when you're staring at a 2008 Vietti Barolo and a 2007 Allegrini Amarone on Williamson Street in Madison, you stop asking questions and start ordering.
The list leans hard into Italy — Piedmont, Alto Adige, Veneto — and it lands. Marchesi Di Gresy Barbera D'Asti and a Tramin Lagrein from Alto Adige give you regional depth that most restaurants twice this size don't bother with. Spain shows up via a Capcanes Mas Donis Grenache-Syrah from Montsant, which is exactly the kind of underdog appellation a list like this should be championing. France gets a nod with Trimbach Gewurztraminer and a Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru, and a Catena Malbec from Mendoza rounds out the South American corner — it's focused, purposeful, and almost nothing feels like filler.
Eight options by the glass is a reasonable spread for a 30-bottle list, and the rotation suggests someone is paying attention to what's on those butcher-block tables. We'd push them to rotate more aggressively — with bottles this interesting, the glass program could be a real differentiator. For now, it's a solid if slightly static lineup.
2009 Capcanes Mas Donis Grenache Syrah, Montsant — N/A
Montsant is Priorat's overlooked neighbor — same rocky terrain, fraction of the price. The Mas Donis is a meaty, dark-fruited pour that punches well above what you'd expect to pay for it in a restaurant setting. Order this before someone else at the table beats you to it.
2011 Tramin Lagrein, Alto Adige
Lagrein is one of the most underappreciated grapes in Italy — dark, smoky, and deeply savory with a softness that surprises people who've never had it. Most diners walk right past it for something they recognize. That's a mistake. Tramin is one of the best producers in Alto Adige and this is a steal of an introduction.
NV Zardetto Prosecco Glera, Veneto
Zardetto is perfectly fine Prosecco, but it's also on the shelf at every Total Wine in America. On a list this curated, it's the one slot that feels like a concession to the crowd rather than a conviction buy. If you want bubbles, ask what they have that's more interesting.
2007 Allegrini Amarone, Veneto + Pork Belly
Amarone is built for rich, fatty meat — the concentrated dried-grape intensity cuts right through pork belly's unctuousness and gives you something to chew on between bites. The Allegrini is a serious bottle and the pork belly is the dish that can keep up with it.
The Bottom Line
A Pig in a Fur Coat is a Wild Card in the best possible way — a cozy, slightly offbeat spot that has no business having a Vietti Barolo and an Allegrini Amarone on the list, and yet here we are. Yes, send your wine-curious friends here, just tell them to look past the Prosecco.
South West Side / Arbor Gate · Madison · Contemporary American
Bonfyre is a reliable neighborhood grill that happens to have Wine Down Wednesday, and that promotion does more for this wine program than anything on the list itself. Come on a Wednesday, order the Riesling or the Malbec with your steak, and you'll leave happy — just don't expect the list to dazzle you on a Tuesday.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Seasonal Rotation
Acceptable
Downtown / Capitol Square · Madison · Sushi / Japanese
Red Sushi isn't a wine destination, and it doesn't pretend to be — but the fortified and dessert options give it more credibility than most comparable spots downtown. Come for the sushi, stay for the Madeira.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Far West Side / Greenway Station · Madison · Casual Italian
Biaggi's is a chain, the markups are steep, and nobody on staff is going to geek out over Nebbiolo with you — but the Wine Wednesday promotion (50% off bottles $75 and under) genuinely changes the math. Come on a Wednesday, order a bottle of Santa Margherita or a Chianti Classico at half price, and you'll have a perfectly solid dinner without any regrets.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Active Program
Acceptable
Downtown · Madison · Seafood and Steak
Tempest is a reliable downtown option for wine with your oysters — the list has genuine highlights and the glass count is respectable, but the markups are steep and the program isn't pushing itself. Go for the Sancerre, go for the Riesling, and don't overthink it.
Solid Range
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
West Side / Junction Road · Madison · Wine Bar & Bistro
Eno Vino West is the dependable neighborhood wine bar Madison's west side needs — not flashy, not adventurous, but genuinely well-stocked and fairly priced. Show up on a Monday or Tuesday, grab a half-price bottle, and stop overthinking it.
Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Active Program
Acceptable
Near West Side / Monroe Street · Madison · Californian-style, veggie-forward American
Everly's list is more thoughtful than most neighborhood spots its size, with a few genuinely exciting bottles mixed in with the safe pours. We'd send a friend here for wine, but we'd tell them to go in with eyes open on the markup — you're paying a premium for the atmosphere as much as what's in the glass.
Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Occasional
Acceptable
Little Italy · San Diego · Mediterranean
Barra Oliba is doing something genuinely interesting for San Diego — a Spain-focused wine program in a polished Little Italy setting, backed by real culinary intent and a sommelier keeping things honest. We'd send a friend here without hesitation, especially if they're ready to let the staff steer. The full list isn't something we've been able to verify in detail, so consider this a strong lead worth confirming in person over a glass of Albariño.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· Atlanta · Mediterranean
Elektra's list is small and smart — a rare combination. The commitment to Greek, Lebanese, and Southern French producers gives it a personality most restaurants with three times the selection can't claim. If you're in the mood to drink something you haven't tried before without getting lectured about it, this list holds up.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· Atlanta · Mediterranean
Kitty Dare is punching well above its weight for an Atlanta restaurant wine list — fair prices, genuinely adventurous selections, and the rare willingness to pour all of it by the glass. We don't have visibility into service or food specifics, but the list alone is worth coming for. If you want a Lebanese white from 70-year-old vines for $13/glass, this is your place.
Deep & Eclectic
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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