Omaha's OG wine destination still delivers
Old Market · Omaha · Contemporary American with French Technique · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · June 11, 2026
RagingWine reviewed V. Mertz’s wine list and gave it The Reliable — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
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Wingman Metrics
Walking into V. Mertz through the Old Market Passageway, the wine list arrives like a small novel — 350+ selections that signal this place takes the program seriously. The room is intimate and candlelit, which sets expectations for a grown-up wine experience. Historically one of the first dedicated wine bars in the country, V. Mertz has a reputation to protect, and the list largely lives up to it.
The depth here is real. The list pulls from across the globe with genuine range — you'll find Galician gems like the Envínate 'Lousas' Ribeira Sacra alongside classic Burgundy from producers like Jean-Marc Pillot, and Rhône representation via Kermit Lynch. It's not a list assembled by a distributor rep on autopilot; there's curatorial intent across Old World regions in particular. Where the list is thinner on specifics in the research, the sheer size and the winery dinner collaborations — like the Flanagan Wines event — suggest an active and engaged program rather than a static one.
Roughly 10–15 pours by the glass in the $12–$22 range is respectable for a fine dining room at this price point, though we'd love to see more adventurous cuts making it to the BTG list rather than staying bottled up. Rotation isn't clearly aggressive, which is the one missed opportunity at a restaurant with this much cellar depth.
Jean-Marc Pillot Bourgogne Blanc — $95
At roughly double retail, the markup stings less than elsewhere on the list — and Pillot's Bourgogne Blanc is the kind of Chardonnay that makes you forget California exists. Real Burgundy from a serious producer at the entry tier of their range.
Envínate 'Lousas' Viñas de Aldea, Ribeira Sacra
Most tables here are scanning for Burgundy or California Cab. This Galician red from Envínate — made from old-vine Mencía on steep schist slopes — is the kind of discovery that makes wine nerds walk out of a restaurant already planning their return. Smoky, mineral, alive.
Kermit Lynch Côtes du Rhône
We love Kermit Lynch as much as anyone, but at $58 for a bottle you can find at your local wine shop for $18, this is a 222% markup on an entry-level Rhône blend. It's a pour that probably moves because the name reads trustworthy on paper. Order something with more story for the money.
Envínate 'Lousas' Viñas de Aldea, Ribeira Sacra + Roasted Duck
Ribeira Sacra Mencía has the structure to handle rich duck fat and the savory, iron-tinged mineral edge that cuts right through it. The Lousas bottling specifically has enough fruit concentration to match the roast but never overwhelms the kitchen's French-leaning technique.
✔️ The Bottom Line
V. Mertz is the rare restaurant in its category where the wine list is genuinely worth your attention — just go in knowing you're paying fine-dining markups across the board. Send your friends here if they want a serious bottle in a serious room; just steer them away from the house-name pours.
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Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Occasional
Acceptable
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Active Program
Acceptable
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Small but Thoughtful
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Active Program
Acceptable
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Seasonal Rotation
Acceptable
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.