California Comfort in a Downtown Albany Gastropub
Downtown Albany · Albany · New American · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 13, 2026
RagingWine reviewed The Hollow Bar + Kitchen’s wine list and gave it The Reliable — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
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Wingman Metrics
The Hollow leans hard into its gastropub identity — live music, solid burgers, and a wine list that reads like a California greatest hits compilation. It's approachable and crowd-friendly, which is fine, but don't come here expecting to stumble onto anything adventurous. The list does what it needs to do without ever trying to surprise you.
This is a California-forward list anchored in Napa and Sonoma, with names like Rombauer and Orin Swift doing the heavy lifting. There's nothing wrong with that, but the range is narrow — Old World drinkers are going to feel underserved, and anyone looking for a Rhône, a Burgundy, or even a domestic Pinot from the Willamette Valley is out of luck. J Vineyards and J Cellars fill out the middle ground with reliable crowd-pleasers, and Orin Swift's Hell Cab is there for the bold red crowd. It's a list built for the restaurant's core customer, not for wine exploration.
The by-the-glass program runs 10-16 options, which is respectable for a gastropub of this size. Expect the usual suspects — a California Cab, a couple of whites, maybe a rosé. The rotation doesn't appear to change much, so what's on the list tonight is probably what was on it six months ago.
J Cellars Pinot Gris — null
On a list that skews heavy toward big Napa reds, J Cellars' Pinot Gris stands out as a lighter, food-friendly option that works well with the kitchen's bolder dishes. It punches above its price point relative to the other options on this list and is often overlooked in favor of the Cabs.
J Vineyards Cuvée
Most people ordering here are going straight for the Rombauer or the Orin Swift, but the J Vineyards Cuvée is a sparkling option that almost nobody thinks to order at a gastropub — and that's exactly why you should. It's a sleeper that holds its own.
Rombauer Cabernet
Rombauer Cabernet is a fine wine, but at restaurant markup it becomes a hard sell when you can get it at retail for significantly less. The Hollow isn't running any deals on this bottle, and you're paying for the name recognition more than anything else here.
Orin Swift Hell Cabernet + Riggies (blackened chicken and chorizo pasta with jalapeño)
The Hell Cab is a big, fruit-forward wine with enough structure to stand up to the spice and smoke of the Riggies. The bold chorizo and jalapeño heat need something that won't get bulldozed, and this Cab holds the line without overcrowding the plate.
The Bottom Line
The Hollow is a solid night out in downtown Albany — the food is the story, the wine list is a supporting character. If you're a California red drinker, you'll be comfortable here; if you're looking for something more adventurous, you're going to be scrolling the cocktail menu by the second course.
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