Taco stand with a surprisingly solid cellar
Riverdale · Little Rock · Mexican and Latin American · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed June 20, 2026
Wingman Metrics
You walk into what used to be a retro service station, order tacos at the counter, and then notice there's an El Enemigo Malbec on the list. That's the whole surprise in a nutshell. The Fold isn't trying to be a wine destination — it just accidentally kind of is one.
The list is compact, running around 15 to 25 bottles, but the editorial choices are sharper than you'd expect from a casual taco spot in Little Rock. Argentina and Spain anchor the selection, with a nod to Mexican terroir rounding things out. El Enemigo, Cune, and Las Rocas are all credible producers with real followings — these aren't supermarket fillers. The gaps are real though: no white wine depth to speak of, and if you want Burgundy or Champagne, you're at the wrong address.
The by-the-glass program runs five to eight options, which is respectable for this format. Expect the core bottles — the Garnacha and Rioja likely anchor the pours — but don't count on much rotation. It's a steady, unfussy lineup that matches the room perfectly.
Las Rocas Garnacha — $12
Garnacha from Calatayud at a taco bar price point is a genuine win. It's juicy, low-fuss, and built for exactly this kind of food. If it's on by the glass, order it without thinking.
El Enemigo Malbec
Most people at The Fold are here for margaritas, which means this bottle sits quietly while serious Mendoza Malbec from one of Argentina's better producers goes underordered. It's the kind of wine that would cost you twice as much at a proper steakhouse down the road.
Cune Rioja
Cune is a perfectly fine Rioja, but it's also everywhere — grocery stores, airport wine shops, your aunt's holiday table. Nothing wrong with it, but at a place with Las Rocas and El Enemigo on the same list, this is the safe boring choice. You can do better.
Las Rocas Garnacha + Smoked pork brunch plate with rice, beans, and tostada
The earthiness and red fruit in the Garnacha cut right through the richness of the smoked pork without fighting it. It's a weekend brunch move that feels accidentally genius.
🎲 The Bottom Line
The Fold is a converted service station serving solid tacos, and somehow it's also pouring El Enemigo Malbec. We'd send a friend here for the food and tell them to skip the margarita — at least once.
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Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Occasional
Acceptable
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Crowd Pleasers
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Crowd Pleasers
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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