California Hits Hard in a Former Kmart
Latham · Latham · American, Farm to Table · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 20, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Scarlet Knife’s wine list and gave it The Reliable — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
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Wingman Metrics
Walking into a fine-dining restaurant housed in a former Kmart is exactly the kind of origin story that makes you root for a place. The wine list arrives and it's California front to back — which, for a farm-to-table steakhouse in upstate New York, is a deliberate call rather than an oversight. Wine Spectator handed them an Award of Excellence in 2024, and you can see why: the list is curated, consistent, and hits the notes its crowd is looking for.
This is an unapologetically California-forward list with the marquee names dialed in: Caymus, Jordan, Duckhorn, Stag's Leap, Rombauer — the kind of lineup that reads like a greatest-hits album for American wine drinkers who know what they like. DAOU rounds things out on the Cab side with solid QPR credentials. What's missing is any real depth outside California — no Burgundy, no Barolo, no Willamette Pinot to break the pattern — so if you came hoping to explore, you're going to hit a wall fast. For the steakhouse crowd this restaurant is clearly courting, though, the list does exactly what it needs to do.
With 12-18 pours available by the glass in the $10-$18 range, there's enough to work through a meal without committing to a bottle. Expect the usual California suspects represented here — Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay almost certainly anchors the white side. The range is decent for a non-wine-bar, though rotation appears minimal; don't expect to find something new on your third visit.
DAOU Cabernet Sauvignon — $35
DAOU punches well above its price point — Paso Robles fruit with the structure to handle a dry-aged steak, and it's likely the most approachable bottle on the low end of the list without sacrificing quality.
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon
Everyone grabs for Caymus on autopilot, but Stag's Leap is the more nuanced pour — more Napa restraint, more complexity over time, and a producer with serious historical credibility that often gets overlooked when it's sitting next to the louder labels.
Rombauer Chardonnay
Rombauer is fine wine, but it's also the most-ordered Chardonnay in America, which means restaurants mark it up knowing people will reflexively order it. At a fine-dining spot, you're almost certainly paying a premium for the name recognition. Sonoma-Cutrer will get you most of the way there for less.
Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon + Dry-aged steak
Jordan's approachable structure and Sonoma tannins make it a natural fit for dry-aged beef — it doesn't overpower the funk and depth of the meat the way a bigger Cab might, and it finishes clean enough to keep you coming back for another bite.
✔️ The Bottom Line
Scarlet Knife is a legitimate fine-dining destination doing right by California wine in a suburb of Albany — that's not nothing. Send a friend who loves Napa Cabs and a great steak; warn the one who wants to dig through an Old World cellar.
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