Orla

Michael's has the bones of a Rager — serious producers, a real sommelier in Nic Vascocu, and a setting that earns the bottle prices. The markups keep it from the top tier, but if you're eating on that garden patio with a glass of Bollinger, you're not going to be complaining.

1Pico is a genuinely pleasant place to drink wine, especially if California and France are your comfort zone and the Pacific Ocean is your preferred backdrop. The markups keep it from being a destination list, but the bones are solid enough that a knowledgeable friend would send you here without apology.

Wally's is the kind of place you bring someone when you want to make a serious impression — the list is deep, the staff knows it cold, and Santa Monica has never had a better reason to order a second bottle. Yes, send your friends here for wine.

Mélisse is what happens when a serious kitchen and a serious cellar grow up together — the Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence is well-earned and the list earns Rager status on depth and curation alone. Just know going in that 'value' here is relative: you're playing in a premium sandbox, and the house rules price accordingly.

Fia Steak is the rare steakhouse where the wine list is worth the trip on its own terms — three sommeliers, 400-plus selections, and enough serious producers to keep a wine-obsessed table busy all night. Bring someone you're trying to impress, and let Patrick or Elias talk you into a bottle you wouldn't have ordered yourself.

Capo is the real thing — a Wine Spectator Grand Award list that earns it on the floor, not just on paper. The markup is real, but so is everything else: the cellar, the glassware, the staff, and the room. Send your friends here for a special occasion and tell them to ask Mirco what's drinking well.