Wagyu meets Burgundy in the best way
SoMa · San Francisco · Japanese Steakhouse · Visit Website ↗
Updated August 2026
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · April 7, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Niku Steakhouse’s wine list and gave it The Rager — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
Wingman Metrics
The wine list at Niku lands like a serious document — 400 to 600 bottles deep, anchored by some of the most coveted names in both Burgundy and California. This is not a list that got assembled by accident. Someone here genuinely cares, and it shows from page one.
California and France split the spotlight evenly, with Burgundy running so deep you could spend three visits and not repeat a bottle. The heavy hitters are all here — Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Leroy, Domaine Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet on the French side; Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, Opus One, Sine Qua Non, and Kistler on the California side. It's a collector's list as much as a restaurant list, which means the ceiling is sky-high but so is the floor. If you're not deep in the weeds on either region, Ryan Torres and Matthew Montrose are the sommeliers to lean on — they can navigate you toward something genuinely exciting without making you feel like a tourist.
With 20 to 35 by-the-glass options, Niku punches well above the steakhouse average here. The range covers enough ground that you can drink thoughtfully from start to finish without committing to a full bottle — a real consideration when the bottle list skews toward major financial commitments. We'd push the staff to walk you through what's currently pouring; the selection at this level changes meaningfully and the difference between a good and great pour by the glass is everything.
Kistler Vineyards Chardonnay — $80
On a list where bottles routinely climb into the hundreds and thousands, Kistler Chardonnay represents the entry point worth grabbing. It's a legitimate California Chardonnay from one of the state's most consistent producers — rich, structured, and built for a table with serious food. Relative to everything else on offer here, it drinks above its price point on this particular list.
Leroy Bourgogne
Most people at Niku are eyeing the DRC or the Harlan and completely bypass the Leroy Bourgogne. That's a mistake. Village-level Leroy is still Leroy — biodynamic farming, obsessive winemaking, and a house style that makes straight Bourgogne taste like other producers' premier cru. If it's on the list and within reach, order it before someone else does.
Opus One
Opus One is a fine wine. It's also one of the most recognized and most marked-up bottles in the American restaurant system. At Niku's price tier, you're paying a significant premium for a label that's available almost everywhere. On a list with Sine Qua Non and Harlan Estate available, spending your money on Opus One is the least interesting move you can make.
Domaine Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin + A5 Japanese Wagyu
A5 Wagyu is all about fat — intricate, buttery, intense marbling that coats every bite. Gevrey-Chambertin from Rousseau brings exactly the right counterweight: earthy depth, firm structure, and enough acidity to cut through the richness without bullying the beef. It's the kind of pairing that makes you understand why Burgundy exists.
The Bottom Line
Niku is the rare steakhouse where the wine list earns as much attention as the beef — a Best of Award of Excellence since 2022 that's clearly not just decorative. Prices are steep across the board, but if you're already dropping serious money on A5 Wagyu, the list has more than enough to make the whole evening worth it.
Embarcadero · San Francisco · Peruvian Seafood
La Mar is a great dinner — the ceviche alone is worth the trip — but the wine list is along for the ride rather than driving it. Order something crisp and cold, enjoy the view, and don't overthink it.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Union Square · San Francisco · American
The Rotunda is a lunch experience first and a wine destination a distant second — the list is safe, the markup is real, and you're largely paying for the address and the atmosphere. Come for the crab salad and the occasion, order something bubbly, and don't go in expecting a serious wine program.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
San Francisco · San Francisco · Wine bar & bottle shop
Bodega SF is what happens when someone actually gives a damn about the list instead of just checking a box. Twenty-six bottles, almost all pourable by the glass, priced fairly, and built around grapes most wine bars wouldn't dare touch — send your adventurous friends here and tell them to skip the safe picks.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Proper
San Francisco · San Francisco · Wine bar
Fig & Thistle is for people who trust a short menu built by someone with a point of view — thirteen bottles, all pouring, all worth talking about. If you need a fallback Cab or a recognizable label to feel safe, this isn't your spot. If you don't, this absolutely is.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
San Francisco · San Francisco · Steakhouse
STK San Francisco has the bones of a wine program and the ambition of a hotel minibar. With only three by-the-glass pours, a list built entirely around safe brand names, and steep markups baked into the concept, this is a place to order a cocktail or splurge on a specific bottle you already know you want.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· San Francisco · Wine Tavern
Big Finish is doing something genuinely different — an all-glass list built around obscure varietals, serious fortified wine, and pricing that doesn't punish curiosity. Send anyone here who wants to drink something they've never tried before and walk away feeling like they learned something.
Deep & Eclectic
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.
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