Mediterrano

When a Mediterranean restaurant in a strip mall on South State Street hands you a wine list with over 300 labels and a sommelier on staff, you do a double-take. This is not the laminated two-page insert you were bracing for. Mediterrano is playing a completely different game than its neighbors.

The list earns its depth honestly — Greek and Spanish bottles anchor the program with real regional conviction, including the Lexis Kidonitsa from Nemea and Juan Gil's Jumilla red, both of which actually belong on a Mediterranean table. But the ambition doesn't stop there: you'll find Paolo Scavino's Barolo (in two expressions, including the 'Monvigliero'), Chateau Musar from Lebanon's Bekaa Valley, and serious California representation from the likes of Rivers-Marie, Patricia Green, and Spottswoode. The Burgundy section shows up with Gachot Monot's Chambolle-Musigny, which is a name most Ann Arbor diners will walk right past — their loss. The only real gap is a limited southern Italian and Iberian white presence beyond the glass pours, but that's nitpicking on a list this size.

321 by-the-glass options is not a typo — it's an extraordinary pour program that almost defies the format. At $13–$18 a glass, you can drink the Lexis Kidonitsa or the Juan Gil without committing to a bottle, which is exactly how it should work. There's no evidence of a rotating selection or active BTG program beyond what's listed, so what you see is what you get — but what you get is genuinely impressive.