Retro Pizzeria Hiding a Surprisingly Honest Pour
Merriam Park · St. Paul · East Coast Italian-American · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed June 24, 2026
Wingman Metrics
Mario's is a 70s-flashback sandwich and pizza joint in Merriam Park — the kind of place where the Zeppole donuts and Italian heroes are clearly the main event. The wine list isn't trying to impress anyone, and somehow that's exactly what makes it interesting. At $8 a glass, you're not being squeezed, and that alone puts it ahead of half the white-tablecloth spots in the Twin Cities.
The list leans into its Italian-American identity without overreaching — think Sicilian whites, Tuscan reds, and a Prosecco to keep things moving. Barone Ricasoli represents Tuscany with enough pedigree to feel intentional, while the Lamura Grillo brings a Sicilian throughline that actually matches the menu's DNA. California doesn't seem to show up in any meaningful way despite being listed as a region focus, so Italy is really doing the heavy lifting here. It's a short list, but the picks feel curated for the food rather than chosen off a distributor sheet.
Everything on the list appears to be available by the glass, which is the right call for a casual spot where people are splitting a pan pizza and probably not committing to a bottle. At $8–$9 a pour, the pricing is refreshingly honest for 2024. Rotation doesn't appear to be a priority, so don't expect seasonal surprises.
Barone Ricasoli Antico Feudo Toscana Rosso — $8
This retails around $15 and you're getting it for $8 a glass — that's essentially at cost. A Tuscan red with real producer credibility at dive-bar pricing is a minor miracle.
Lamura Grillo Siciliana
Grillo is the unsung white grape of Sicily — bright, saline, and food-friendly in a way that Pinot Grigio wishes it could be. Most people will walk right past it, which means more for you.
Le Contesse Prosecco
At $9 on a $14 retail bottle, it's the least compelling value on the list — and Prosecco at a Sicilian pizza joint feels like a miss when you could be drinking the Grillo instead.
Lamura Grillo Siciliana + Italian Hero Sandwich
The Grillo's acidity cuts through the cured meats and oil-slicked bread without bullying the flavors — it's basically the regional pairing that geography already figured out for you.
🎲 The Bottom Line
Mario's isn't a wine destination, but it's a wine-friendly one — and at these prices, ordering a glass feels like beating the system. Come for the sandwich, stay for the fact that your $8 Tuscan red isn't embarrassing anyone.
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.