Corporate Comfort Zone With A Markup Problem
Altoona (east metro) · Des Moines · Steakhouse / Italian-inspired · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed June 20, 2026
Wingman Metrics
You flip open the wine list and it's immediately familiar — not because you've been here before, but because this exact list exists at two other Johnny's locations across the metro. The corporate DNA is obvious: safe producers, recognizable labels, nothing that will surprise or offend. It's a list built to move bottles, not spark conversation.
The list covers the expected geography — California heavyweights, a few Italian nods, some international filler from Spain, New Zealand, and Argentina — but the producers tell the whole story. Meiomi, Kendall-Jackson, Santa Margherita, Decoy: these are grocery store staples dressed up in a steakhouse setting. There's nothing wrong with any of them individually, but as a curated list for a restaurant charging $22–$40 an entrée, it's punching well below its weight class. Dom Pérignon shows up at the top of the sparkling section, which is a fun flex, but everything between the house pour and the Champagne feels like a missed opportunity to build something interesting.
There are roughly 15–20 glass options spanning sparkling, white, red, and dessert, which is a respectable count for a mid-size chain. The problem is the selection doesn't rotate — it's a static corporate program that reads the same in January as it does in July. What you get is consistent; what you don't get is anything worth getting excited about.
Franciscan Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley — $13/glass
At $13 a glass it's still marked up, but Napa Cab by the glass in a steakhouse context has a floor. Franciscan is a reliable producer and holds up next to the red meat on the menu better than the cheaper pours.
Decoy by Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon, California
Most people overlook Decoy because the Duckhorn name makes them expect a higher price tag. It's a legitimate second-label from a serious Napa producer, and it drinks above what most people expect from this list.
Ecco Domani Pinot Grigio, Italy
A $9.99 retail bottle sitting at $35 on the menu is a 250% markup on one of the most generic Pinot Grigios in the Italian import aisle. There is no version of this math that works in your favor.
Decoy by Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon, California + Filet Mignon
The Decoy has enough dark fruit and structure to stand up to a well-seared filet without overwhelming it — it's the move on a list that doesn't give you many moves.
❌ The Bottom Line
Johnny's Altoona is a fine place for a steak, but the wine list is a corporate afterthought with markups that consistently punish curious drinkers. Order the Decoy with your filet, skip the Pinot Grigio, and don't expect anyone at the table to geek out with you about what's in the glass.
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Crowd Pleasers
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Seasonal Rotation
Acceptable
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Occasional
Acceptable
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Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Active Program
Acceptable
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Grocery Store
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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Bravo! is a fine dinner out if the pasta is what you're after, but the wine list is purely functional — corporate-designed, safely marked up, and entirely forgettable. Order a glass of bubbles or the Chianti, make peace with your choices, and let the food do the heavy lifting.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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