Fried Chicken, Roti, and Actually Good Wine
Mississippi Β· Portland Β· Southern Thai Β· Visit Website β
Reviewed April 14, 2026
Wingman Metrics
You're here for the fried chicken. You're absolutely not expecting the wine list to be interesting. And yet β Hat Yai quietly hands you a short, considered selection that makes you do a double take at a counter-service spot on Killingsworth.
The list is tiny β we're talking a handful of options β but whoever chose these bottles was paying attention. A German Riesling and a Languedoc red from Minervois are not the wines of someone who just called a distributor and said 'send me whatever.' These are food-first picks, chosen to actually work with spice, fat, and funk. No Cabernet Sauvignon, no Pinot Grigio from nowhere β just two wines that make sense on the table. The gap, obviously, is depth: if you want a second option mid-meal, your choices are limited.
At least two pours and both are $9 flat β which in Portland in 2024 is practically an act of charity. The Peter Louer Riesling and the Sentinelle de Massiac Minervois cover the white-and-red bases without any fuss. Rotation appears nonexistent, but when what's there works this well, that's easy to forgive.
Sentinelle de Massiac Minervois 2015 β $9
A $18 retail bottle poured at $9 a glass is a straight-up steal. Minervois reds tend to be earthy and herb-driven β exactly what you want next to a bowl of curry.
Peter Louer 'Barrel X' Riesling 2015
Most people ordering fried chicken at a counter-service Thai joint aren't reaching for a 2015 German Riesling. They should be. The acidity and residual character in barrel-aged Riesling is one of the best things you can put next to spicy food, and at $9 it's practically a secret.
Sentinelle de Massiac Minervois 2015
Skip it only if you're leaning into the heat β the Minervois is a solid pour but the tannin structure can amplify spice rather than cool it down. Go Riesling if your curry order is aggressive.
Peter Louer 'Barrel X' Riesling 2015 + House Curry
Riesling's natural acidity cuts through rich coconut-based curry while its fruit weight handles the heat without getting steamrolled. This is a textbook match, stumbled upon at a counter-service spot on a North Portland side street.
π² The Bottom Line
Hat Yai isn't a wine destination β it's a fried chicken destination that happens to have two genuinely smart, absurdly affordable wine picks. That's more than most restaurants twice its price point can say.
Northwest 23rd Β· Portland Β· Rustic French / Northwest French
St. Jack is the rare Portland restaurant where the wine list earns as much respect as the kitchen. The French-Oregon axis is well-executed, the staff knows what they're talking about, and the pot lyonnais format alone is worth the trip.
Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Downtown Β· Portland Β· Mexico Cityβinspired tacos and small plates
Tope is a Wild Card in the best sense β a rooftop taqueria that's quietly assembled a natural and low-intervention wine list worth paying attention to. If you're eating here and only drinking mezcal cocktails, you're leaving half the story on the table.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Downtown Β· Portland Β· TexanβPacific Northwest, Wood-fired American
Bullard Tavern is the Wild Card badge in its purest form β a smoked-meat joint that snuck in a genuinely considered wine list without making a fuss about it. Send a friend here if they think good wine and good brisket can't coexist.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Downtown/Waterfront Β· Portland Β· Seafood, Pacific Northwest
King Tide earns its Wild Card badge by hiding a genuinely curious, well-priced wine list inside what could easily have been a forgettable hotel seafood room. If you're eating oysters on the Willamette, you could do a lot worse than Domaine de l'Γcu in your glass.
Small but Thoughtful
Steal
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Concordia Β· Portland Β· New American
Dame is the rare neighborhood restaurant where the wine list is genuinely worth the trip on its own. Send your friends here β just tell them to skip the safe picks and trust the list.
Deep & Eclectic
Fair
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Seasonal Rotation
Proper
Buckman Β· Portland Β· Russian/Eastern European
Kachka is the best argument in Portland for drinking wines you've never heard of β the list is adventurous, the staff backs it up, and the food was built for exactly these bottles. Send every curious wine drinker you know.
Surprising Depth
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Acceptable
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