Granita Enoteca

You're in Keene, New Hampshire — not exactly the first place you'd expect to find Giacomo Conterno and Sassicaia on the same list. The wine program here punches so far above its zip code that it earns a double-take. This is a real enoteca doing real enoteca things in a town of 23,000 people.

The list runs 200-350 bottles deep with a clear editorial point of view: Italy first, France close behind, California as a reliable supporting cast. Piedmont is the crown jewel — Barolo from Giacomo Conterno and Bruno Giacosa is not a casual commitment, and Barbaresco and Barbera d'Asti round out the region properly. Burgundy gets the Jadot and Drouhin treatment (approachable negociant entries that don't require a second mortgage), while Bordeaux classified growths and Super Tuscans like Ornellaia and Sassicaia cover the power-collector corner. The gaps are real — New World beyond California is thin, and there's no obvious natural wine thread — but the depth where it counts is genuinely impressive for a restaurant at this scale.

Twenty to thirty-five pours by the glass is a serious commitment and suggests someone is actually thinking about turnover and freshness. The price range of $12-$22 is honest for this tier of wine. We'd zero in on the Italian pours — a Barbera d'Asti or Barbaresco by the glass at this level is the kind of thing you just don't find at most neighborhood Italian spots.