Hearth Fire Energy, Solid Wine to Match
Old Port · Portland · New American · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed April 10, 2026
Wingman Metrics
Walking into Fore Street, the wood-burning hearth immediately steals the show — and the wine list seems to know it's playing a supporting role. It doesn't try to outshine the room, but it's clearly been put together by someone who cares more than the average casual-dining operator. The bottle range from $60 to $800 signals genuine range, not just a few house pours and a token Champagne.
The list leans into a thoughtful mix of Old World and domestic picks that make sense alongside hearth-roasted proteins and serious Maine seafood. Champagne gets real attention — Laurent-Perrier, Billecart-Salmon in multiple formats including a magnum and a prestige cuvée, and a Grand Cru Jean Vesselle Extra Brut that most restaurants at this price point wouldn't bother stocking. On the domestic side, The Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Gris from Willamette Valley and Ravines Dry Gewurztraminer from the Finger Lakes show some genuine curiosity about American wine regions beyond the obvious. The full list depth is harder to assess without a complete menu in hand, but what's visible here is promising enough to trust the rest.
The by-the-glass program is described as extensive and rotating, which is the right call for a restaurant that changes its menu with the seasons. We can't confirm exact pours on any given night, but the fact that they're actively rotating means the glass selection stays relevant to what's coming out of that oven. If you're on the fence about a bottle, ask what's open — a rotating BTG program like this usually means there's something worth a half pour before you commit.
NV Laurent-Perrier 'La Cuvee' Brut Champagne, France (half bottle) — $88
A half bottle of Laurent-Perrier Brut at $88 on a night out in Portland's Old Port is genuinely fair — retail on this runs around $60 for the half, so the markup isn't punishing. It's the right move if two people want bubbles with their oysters without committing to a full bottle.
2009 Jean Vesselle Extra Brut 'Les Petit Clos', Grand Cru Champagne, France
Most tables are going to walk right past a 2009 vintage Champagne from a small Grand Cru grower-producer and order the Billecart instead. That's their loss. Jean Vesselle is a Bouzy-based family domaine with deep roots, and a 15-year-old Extra Brut at Grand Cru level is the kind of thing you drink once and talk about for a while. At $434 it's a splurge, but it's the most interesting bottle on the list.
NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé Champagne, France (half bottle)
Billecart Rosé is a reliable crowd-pleaser, but $155 for a half bottle — roughly 72% over retail — is the steepest markup we see on this list. The Laurent-Perrier half bottle delivers comparable occasion energy at a much fairer price. Save the Billecart upgrade for the full bottle or the magnum if you're going big.
2022 The Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon + Hearth-roasted seafood
Eyrie's Pinot Gris is textured enough to hold up against the char and smoke coming off the wood grill, but it has the restraint to not bulldoze whatever's actually on the plate. Against a piece of hearth-roasted fish or shellfish, that balance is exactly what you want — richness without weight, fruit without sweetness.
✔️ The Bottom Line
Fore Street isn't trying to be a wine destination, but it's not phoning it in either — the Champagne selection alone is more serious than most restaurants twice its price point. If you're eating here, drink something from that list. You won't regret it.
East End · Portland · Sushi / Japanese
Mr. Tuna isn't a wine destination — it's a great sushi spot that happens to have two sensible, well-chosen bottles and a local can that makes the experience feel intentional. Come for the hand rolls, drink the Vinho Verde, and don't overthink it.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
East Bayside · Portland · Seafood
A fast-casual raw bar with a wine list that punches well above its category — the French-only focus is a feature, not a limitation. If you're eating oysters in Portland, this is where you want to be drinking.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Deer Isle · Portland · Seafood Fine Dining
Aragosta is the rare case where the wine program matches the remoteness of the drive — you come all the way out here and find a 3,475-bottle cellar waiting for you. Yes, send your friends. Send everyone.
Deep & Eclectic
Fair
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Old Port · Portland · Seafood, American
Scales is playing a different game than the tourist-trap seafood spots on either side of it — the wine list is genuinely Old World-focused and well-matched to the food, which is rare and worth noting. If you're eating clams and mussels on the Portland waterfront, this is where you want to be doing it with a glass in hand.
Solid Range
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Arts District · Portland · Seafood, Californian, Contemporary Mexican
Regards isn't trying to be a wine bar, but whoever built this list understands exactly what the food needs and went hunting for it. If you're in Portland and want a bottle that actually earns its place on the table, this is the move.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
West End · Portland · French and Spanish
Chaval is punching above its weight class for a neighborhood brasserie in Portland — the list is small but curated by someone who actually cares, with pricing that doesn't punish curiosity. If you're open to going off the beaten path (xarel-lo, South African grenache blanc), this is a genuinely rewarding room to drink in.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Broadway corridor · Fort Wayne · New American
Rune is doing something genuinely rare for its zip code: building a wine list with a real identity. Come on a Wednesday, order the Ovum, and feel good about finding a place like this.
Small but Thoughtful
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Active Program
Acceptable
West Plano · Plano · New American
CraftWay Kitchen isn't trying to be a wine destination and doesn't pretend to be — but the markups are fair, the glass program is wide, and there's enough on the list to drink well with a solid meal. Send your friends here for dinner; just don't send them here for a wine education.
Crowd Pleasers
Fair
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Occasional
Acceptable
Clemmons · Winston Salem · New American
Sixty Vines is a solid, reliable wine stop in Winston-Salem — the by-the-glass breadth is real and the staff knows their stuff, but the list reads like a greatest hits album rather than anything adventurous. Come for the volume, stay for the pizza, but don't expect to have your mind changed about wine.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.