Smithtown

Osteria Umbra is doing something genuinely worthwhile for the Long Island suburbs — a focused Italian list with real depth, fair prices, and the rare courtesy of including local New York producers. Send a friend here who thinks good wine only happens in the city.

Insignia is the rare suburban steakhouse where the wine list genuinely competes with what you'd find in a serious New York City dining room. Sommelier on staff, Wine Spectator credentials earned, and a list deep enough that you'll want to come back to work through it — just bring a bigger budget.