The LES natural wine bar that actually delivers
Lower East Side · New York · Small Plates / Wine Bar · Visit Website ↗
Updated July 2026
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · March 24, 2026
RagingWine reviewed Wildair’s wine list and gave it The Rager — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
Wingman Metrics
The list at Wildair hits differently than most New York wine bars — it reads like someone actually curated it with a point of view instead of just ordering whatever the rep pushed that month. Natural, low-intervention, alive with personality, and priced in a way that makes you feel like you're getting away with something. That's a rare combination on Orchard Street, or anywhere in this city.
Ninety-two labels deep with a tight focus on France and Italy, but the breadth within those regions is impressive. You've got grower Champagne from Bonnet-Ponson and Seconde Nature sitting next to Costadilà Prosecco, Dard & Ribo doing their thing in the Rhône, and Jean-Yves Peron bringing Alpine weirdness from Savoie. Domaine Tissot's Indigene and Eric Pfifferling's Tavel round out a roster that rewards the curious drinker who actually wants to eat through the list. The gaps are minimal — this is a deliberately built program, not an afterthought.
Twelve pours by the glass is generous for a list this focused, and the rotation reflects what's happening on the bottle list rather than just the safe crowd-pleasers. Expect the pours to shift with the seasons and the menu, which means there's almost always something worth asking about. Staff will steer you right if you're unsure.
Bonnet-Ponson Seconde Nature NV — $45
Grower Champagne at the entry price point of this list is a gift — this is a bottle that would run you significantly more at a traditional wine program, and it drinks with all the texture and interest you'd want from a serious house.
Jean-Yves Peron
Peron's wines from Savoie are some of the most underappreciated bottles in the natural wine world — Alpine varieties most people can't name, made with serious intention. Most diners scroll past it. Don't.
Meyer Pinot Noir
At $60 on the list against a $35 retail price, this one carries the steepest markup in the sampling — nearly double. On a list this good and this fairly priced overall, it sticks out as the one bottle where the math doesn't work in your favor.
Eric Pfifferling Tavel + Beef tartare
Pfifferling's Tavel is a serious, structured rosé with enough grip and savory depth to stand up to raw beef without overwhelming it. The minerality cuts through the fat, and the whole thing feels intentional in the best possible way.
The Bottom Line
Wildair is the real deal — a wine program with actual conviction, fair pricing that borders on generous, and a room that makes you want to order another bottle and stay. If you care about wine and you're in New York, this one belongs on your list.
NoHo · New York · Italian
Il Buco has one of the most compelling Italian wine lists in New York City — deep, principled, and staffed by people who actually care. The markup is real, so budget accordingly, but this is a room worth splurging in.
Deep & Eclectic
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Downtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Downtown is a place where people order Champagne to celebrate, not to drink — and the wine program is built accordingly. If you're here for the vibe and someone else is paying, pop the Dom and enjoy it; if you actually care about what's in your glass, you're in the wrong room.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Upscale Seafood & Steakhouse
Three happy hour wines do not a wine program make. Ocean Prime is a place you eat well and drink safely — but if wine is a priority, this list will let you down before the bread basket arrives.
Grocery Store
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Occasional
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Midtown is a great place to see and be seen, but the wine list is there to pad the check, not to excite you. If you're here for the experience, lean on the cocktails or grab a glass of Bonanza at the bar — don't expect the bottle list to reward any real curiosity.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown West · New York · Russian-American
The Russian Tea Room treats wine as an afterthought dressed up in Champagne flutes — five famous labels at punishing prices with no range, no by-the-glass program, and no apparent curiosity about wine beyond what looks impressive on a table. Go for the spectacle, order the caviar, but don't come here expecting a wine list.
Grocery Store
Gouge
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
David Burke Tavern's list is a Chardonnay lover's comfort zone with a solid sparkling section propping up the top — but the narrow focus and steep pricing mean you're paying for familiarity, not discovery. Send a friend here if they want California whites and a glass of Champagne; send them somewhere else if they want to explore.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.
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