Twenty Eight
California Heavy Hitters Meet Asian Steakhouse Ambition
Irvine · Irvine · Asian Steakhouse · Visit Website ↗
Reviewed April 13, 2026
Wingman Metrics
First Impression
Walking into Twenty Eight, you'd be forgiven for expecting the wine list to be an afterthought — upscale Asian steakhouses don't always lead with their cellar. But this one has a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence on the wall and a sommelier named Kevin Ho running the program, which tells you someone here actually cares. The list skews hard California, which makes sense given the address, but whether that's a feature or a bug depends on what you're after.
Selection Deep Dive
This is a California-forward list built around the greatest hits: Caymus Cabernet, Silver Oak Alexander Valley, Jordan, Far Niente Chardonnay, Kistler Chardonnay, Duckhorn Merlot — essentially the Spotify top 40 of Napa and Sonoma. With 150 to 250 bottles in the cellar, there's real depth here, but don't come looking for Burgundy rabbit holes or anything that requires explanation. The list was clearly curated to match the room — big reds for the wagyu crowd, plush Chardonnays for everyone else. It works, it just won't surprise you.
By the Glass
The by-the-glass program runs 12 to 20 options with pours priced between $12 and $22, which is respectable for the Irvine business corridor crowd on an expense account. Expect the same California-centric lineup in smaller format — this isn't a place doing obscure rotating pours, but the glasses are solid and the quality is there. Kevin Ho's presence means you're unlikely to get something tired or oxidized sitting in a half-open bottle from last Tuesday.
Jordan Winery Cabernet Sauvignon — $12–$200 range
Jordan punches above its price point every time — it's the room's best-kept open secret. Elegant, food-friendly, and consistently well-made, it gets overshadowed by the Caymus crowd but delivers a better experience with food.
Kistler Chardonnay
In a room full of red-meat drinkers ordering big Cabs, Kistler Chardonnay sits quietly on this list waiting to be discovered. It's one of California's most serious white wines — rich but structured, nothing like the butter-bomb Chardonnays that typically dominate a steakhouse list.
Caymus Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
Caymus is everywhere, and everywhere it's marked up. It's a crowd-pleaser by design and a margin-builder by pricing — you're paying for the name recognition more than what's in the glass. Better options live right next to it on this list.
Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot + Braised Short Rib
Duckhorn Merlot has the plush texture and dark fruit weight to handle the richness of braised short rib without steamrolling the Asian-spiced braise. It's softer than a Cab but has enough structure to hold up — a legitimately great match.
🎲 The Bottom Line
Twenty Eight is a Wild Card because the concept — an Asian steakhouse with a Wine Spectator-recognized California-heavy list and an actual sommelier — is rarer than it sounds in Orange County. The markup is real and the list won't challenge you, but Kevin Ho and the quality of what's here make it worth ordering a bottle.
Comments
Get the Weekly Wingman
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.