Williamsburg's natural wine church, and it delivers
Williamsburg · New York · New American, Wine Bar · Visit Website ↗
Updated April 2026
Reviewed by the RagingWine Tasting Desk · March 23, 2026
RagingWine reviewed The Four Horsemen’s wine list and gave it The Rager — RagingWine’s Vibe-Check rating. How RagingWine reviews wine lists →
Wingman Metrics
The list lands on the table and it's immediately clear this isn't a restaurant that bolted on a wine program as an afterthought. It reads like it was written by someone who actually drinks this stuff on their days off. Williamsburg cool, yes — but backed by serious knowledge.
Two hundred to three hundred bottles deep, and almost none of them are names you'd see at a chain steakhouse. The focus is natural and low-intervention across Loire, Jura, Sicily, Austria, and the Northern Rhône — and they commit to it without becoming a caricature. Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny sits alongside Foradori Teroldego and Gut Oggau, which tells you something: this list respects terroir across the map, not just one trendy corner of it. The gaps are minimal; if anything, the conventional wine drinker might feel a little lost, but that's kind of the point.
Roughly 20 to 30 options by the glass, which is generous by any standard and remarkable given how interesting the selections are. You're not cycling through Pinot Grigio and Malbec here — expect rotating pours from producers like Domaine de la Pépière and Domaine Gonon that change with the season. It's a by-the-glass program that actually rewards curiosity.
Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet — $
Muscadet gets dismissed as cheap beach wine, but Pépière's version is aged on lees with real texture and salinity. At Four Horsemen's price point, it's the best deal on the list for a bottle that consistently overdelivers.
Cornelissen Contadino
Most people ordering Sicilian wine here reach for something more familiar. Contadino is Cornelissen's entry-level field blend from the slopes of Etna — volcanic, wild, and unlike almost anything else on the list. It gets overlooked because the name doesn't ring a bell, which means more for you.
Clos Rougeard Saumur-Champigny
One of the great names in the Loire, full stop — but the cult status means you're paying a significant premium here. Unless you're celebrating something, the same money buys you two excellent bottles elsewhere on this list.
Domaine Gonon Saint-Joseph + Fried skate wing
Northern Rhône Syrah from Gonon is savory, peppery, and has enough acidity to cut through the richness of fried skate. It's the kind of pairing that sounds wrong on paper and tastes completely right at the table.
The Bottom Line
The Four Horsemen is the rare restaurant where the wine list is reason enough to make the reservation. Send your friends here — but tell them to let the staff guide the pour.
NoHo · New York · Italian
Il Buco has one of the most compelling Italian wine lists in New York City — deep, principled, and staffed by people who actually care. The markup is real, so budget accordingly, but this is a room worth splurging in.
Deep & Eclectic
Steep
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Downtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Downtown is a place where people order Champagne to celebrate, not to drink — and the wine program is built accordingly. If you're here for the vibe and someone else is paying, pop the Dom and enjoy it; if you actually care about what's in your glass, you're in the wrong room.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Upscale Seafood & Steakhouse
Three happy hour wines do not a wine program make. Ocean Prime is a place you eat well and drink safely — but if wine is a priority, this list will let you down before the bread basket arrives.
Grocery Store
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Occasional
Acceptable
Midtown · New York · Steakhouse
STK Midtown is a great place to see and be seen, but the wine list is there to pad the check, not to excite you. If you're here for the experience, lean on the cocktails or grab a glass of Bonanza at the bar — don't expect the bottle list to reward any real curiosity.
Crowd Pleasers
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
Midtown West · New York · Russian-American
The Russian Tea Room treats wine as an afterthought dressed up in Champagne flutes — five famous labels at punishing prices with no range, no by-the-glass program, and no apparent curiosity about wine beyond what looks impressive on a table. Go for the spectacle, order the caviar, but don't come here expecting a wine list.
Grocery Store
Gouge
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
· New York · Restaurant
David Burke Tavern's list is a Chardonnay lover's comfort zone with a solid sparkling section propping up the top — but the narrow focus and steep pricing mean you're paying for familiarity, not discovery. Send a friend here if they want California whites and a glass of Champagne; send them somewhere else if they want to explore.
Plays It Safe
Steep
Basic Stemmed
Rotating Cast
Set & Forget
Acceptable
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.
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