Burgundy and sunsets, both worth the splurge
Wailea Β· Maui Β· American, Asian Β· Visit Website β
Reviewed April 7, 2026
Wingman Metrics
You're sitting oceanfront at the Four Seasons, and the wine list lands with the kind of thud that says someone here takes this seriously. Four hundred-plus bottles anchored by serious Burgundy and California heavyweights β this isn't a resort list built to move Meiomi. It's a real program that happens to have a very good view.
Burgundy is the clear obsession here, with Domaine Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin and Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet anchoring the French side and a reported DRC presence for those who want to spend a car payment on a Tuesday. Italy shows up properly with Gaja Barbaresco and Antinori Tignanello β not just as name drops but as part of a coherent old-world thread. California gets its due through Kistler, Peter Michael, Opus One, Caymus Special Selection, and yes, Screaming Eagle for the flex crowd. The gaps are minor: the list skews heavily toward the prestige tier, so if you're hunting under $60, your options thin out fast.
Twenty to thirty options by the glass is genuinely impressive for a resort restaurant, and the range reportedly spans $18 to $45 a pour β meaning there are real wines here, not just whatever needed to move. With David Klugerman running the floor, expect the glass list to reflect actual taste rather than pure margin optimization. Ask what's open; the good stuff sometimes makes it onto the pour list.
Domaine Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin β $120β$160 (est. bottle)
Village-level Gevrey from Faiveley is a legitimate entry point into serious Burgundy β structured, earthy, and a long way from the inflated resort markups you'd expect on a CΓ΄te de Nuits label at a Four Seasons. It's the bottle that makes you feel like you beat the house.
Peter Michael Winery (Chardonnay or Cabernet)
Most tables at Spago are reaching for Kistler or going nuclear with Screaming Eagle. Peter Michael sits in the middle β serious California terroir with actual restraint and winemaking craft β and it consistently gets overlooked by guests chasing the bigger names. Don't overlook it.
Caymus Vineyards Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon
Caymus Special Selection is a fine wine, but it's also one of the most marked-up bottles in America. At a Four Seasons resort in Hawaii, that markup gets a third story added to it. You're paying for the label at that point, not the glass. Spend the same money on Gaja and thank us later.
Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet + Japanese hamachi sashimi
Leflaive's Puligny brings enough mineral tension and citrus depth to cut through the richness of the hamachi without steamrolling the delicate fish. The wine's Burgundian weight matches the dish's elegance β two things operating at the same frequency.
π₯ The Bottom Line
Spago Maui is the rare resort wine program that earns its Wine Spectator hardware β deep on Burgundy and California, staffed by someone who actually knows the list, and set against a backdrop that makes even a village Gevrey taste better. The markups sting, but so does flying to Maui, and if you're already here, the wine is worth the ride.
Downtown Β· Jackson Hole Β· American, Asian
The Kitchen is the rare ski-resort restaurant where the wine list is actually worth your attention β fair prices, genuine range, and a few bottles that have no business being this far from a major city. Yes, send a friend here for wine.
Solid Range
Steal
Basic Stemmed
Willing but Green
Occasional
Proper
San Juan Β· San Juan Β· American, Asian
Lala is doing something genuinely surprising in San Juan: running a wine program that belongs in a major-market restaurant destination, not a mall anchor. If you're in Puerto Rico and you care about wine, you owe it to yourself to eat here.
Deep & Eclectic
Fair
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Set & Forget
Proper
Columbus Β· Columbus Β· American, Asian
Agni is the best wine list in Columbus most people haven't had a reason to talk about yet β until now. With two sommeliers, a 300β500 bottle program, and a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence already in its first year, send your friends here and tell them to skip the Caymus.
Deep & Eclectic
Fair
Varietal Specific
Knowledgeable & Friendly
Seasonal Rotation
Proper
One wine list review, one adventure pick, one quick tip, and a personal note. Every week. Under 500 words.