Portofino

Walking into Portofino, the old brick walls and wood floors tell you this place has been around long enough to take itself seriously. The wine list backs that up — 60 bottles, Italy and California sharing the spotlight, nothing wildly adventurous but nothing embarrassing either. It reads like a restaurant that wants wine to work hard for the food without making you do homework to order.

The list leans predictably Italian and Californian, which makes sense given the menu, but don't expect any deep dives into Piedmont or obscure Sicilian producers. You'll find the familiar faces — Ruffino, Danzante, Hacienda — doing their expected jobs. The more interesting moves are in the California whites: Massican Annia and Far Niente Chardonnay show up, suggesting someone here has at least mild ambition. Gaps exist in the Southern hemisphere and anything from Spain or the Rhône, but for Lexington, this is a respectable showing.

Twelve pours by the glass is a solid number for a restaurant this size, and the Italian whites make a strong showing — you'll find multiple Pinot Grigio options to navigate depending on how much you want to spend. The glass program feels a bit static without a clear rotation or seasonal update, but the options cover enough ground that most tables will land somewhere comfortable.