Ogawa Sushi & Kappo

Twenty-five bottles at a $200-a-head omakase counter is either a bold editorial statement or a missed opportunity — and honestly, it's a little of both. The list skews European and acid-forward, which makes sense when you're eating through 23 courses of pristine raw fish. What it lacks in depth, it at least makes up for in intention.

The list leans hard on the Loire Valley and pulls in a Verdicchio from Marche and a rosé from Languedoc — all high-acid, food-friendly wines that aren't going to fight the fish. There's no red wine rabbit hole to fall down here, which is probably the right call for an omakase format. The Domaine Bailly-Reverdy Mercy Dieu 2022 Sancerre at $107 is the most serious bottle on the list and earns its place. The Dom Pérignon 2013 at $475 feels like a flex add-on for table celebrators rather than a thoughtful cellar pick.

Four pours by the glass, ranging $19–$22, and they're all white or sparkling — which is exactly right for this context. The Crémant de Loire from Maison Foucher is the easy opener, and the Verdicchio from Colle Leva at $22 is the most interesting glass on offer. Rotation appears limited; this reads more like a fixed program than something that gets refreshed with the seasons.