Mary's Vine

You walk into a restored church in Rankin — not exactly where you'd expect to find nearly 400 bottles and a sommelier who actually knows what's in them. The live jazz, the vaulted ceilings, the soundproofing — it all hits at once, and somehow it works. This is a serious wine program wearing a very beautiful suit.

The list clocks in just under 400 bottles and spans France (Champagne gets serious real estate), Australia, South Africa, Italy, the US, England, and Chile — a genuinely global sweep that doesn't feel random. You've got 2007 Penfolds Grange Bin 95 at $790 sitting at the top of the cellar, NV Krug Grande Cuvée at $380, and a 2013 Dom Pérignon available by the glass at $55 — that last one is rare and worth noting. The entry point is just as considered: the NV Lambrusco Emilia IGT Dolce at $31 signals that whoever built this list wasn't only thinking about high rollers. There are real gaps in deep Burgundy and Rhône coverage, but the breadth everywhere else makes up for it.

Seventy-five by-the-glass options is not a typo — it's one of the most expansive BTG programs we've seen anywhere, full stop. Pours run $12.50 to $17.50 for most options, which is honest pricing for this caliber of venue, and the fact that you can order a glass of 2013 Dom Pérignon here is the kind of thing wine lists usually reserve for bottles only. No evidence of a rotating program or weekly specials, which is the one thing holding this back from being truly untouchable.