French Wine Meets Peking Duck in the Suburbs
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Reviewed April 22, 2026
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You're sitting down for Peking duck in suburban Philadelphia and the wine list opens to Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Alsatian Riesling — it's unexpected in the best way. This isn't a wine list that happened by accident; someone genuinely thought about what goes on this menu. That someone is Warren Kuo, and it shows.
The list runs 150 to 200 bottles and leans hard into France, which is exactly the right call for a kitchen built around layered, aromatic, sauce-forward dishes. Burgundy anchors the upper tier with names like Drouhin and Jadot doing the heavy lifting; Bordeaux classified growths make an appearance for the red-wine-with-duck crowd. The real intelligence here is the Alsace section — Trimbach and Hugel Rieslings are a natural match for ginger, scallion, and the gentle heat that runs through half this menu. Rhône producers Chapoutier and Guigal round things out with enough weight to handle the black pepper beef. The Champagne shelf (Veuve, Moët) reads a little safe, but at a suburban Asian restaurant with a legit French cellar, we're not complaining.
Twelve to eighteen pours by the glass is a solid number — enough variety to land somewhere interesting without the list getting sloppy. Prices run $10 to $18, which is reasonable for this level of curation. We'd love to see the Alsatian selections rotate through more aggressively on the glass list; a Trimbach Riesling by the pour with dim sum would be a revelation.
Trimbach Riesling (Alsace) — $35–$45
Alsatian Riesling at the entry price point is the smartest order on this list. Trimbach is one of the most reliable producers in the region, and at the low end of this restaurant's bottle range, you're getting serious food-friendly acidity and aromatics for the money. Order it with anything involving ginger or citrus.
Chapoutier Rhône Valley
Most people at an Asian restaurant reach for white or Champagne and never look at the Rhône section. That's a mistake. Chapoutier's Rhône bottlings have the earthy depth and pepper notes that make them genuinely interesting next to a crispy whole fish or the beef tenderloin with black pepper sauce.
Moët & Chandon Champagne
It's fine, it's inoffensive, and you're paying the full restaurant premium for a label you can grab at any grocery store. If you want bubbles, you're not at a disadvantage here — just redirect that spend toward something from Alsace or Burgundy that you can't order on autopilot anywhere else.
Hugel Riesling (Alsace) + Lobster with ginger and scallion
This is the pairing Warren Kuo's list was quietly built for. Hugel's Riesling brings bright citrus and a whisper of petrol that cuts right through the richness of the lobster while harmonizing with the ginger and scallion in a way that a Chardonnay simply wouldn't. It's the kind of pairing that makes you feel like you figured something out.
🎲 The Bottom Line
A French-focused wine list inside an upscale Pan-Asian restaurant in Media, Pennsylvania shouldn't work this well — and yet here we are. If you're within driving distance and you appreciate the idea of Alsatian Riesling with Peking duck, make the trip.
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